Candle Making Basics

How does a candle wick work?

A candle without a wick is just a hunk of wax. The wick is what a candle is all about. The earliest known candles were basically a wick-like material coated with tallow or beeswax, not even resembling a candle at all. In taper candles the wick is the structure which supports the first layers of wax that create the candle. In all candles it acts as a fuel pump, supplying liquefied wax up to the top where all of the action takes place. As a regulator, different size wicks allow different amounts of wax up into the combustion area providing different size flames. The wick is pretty much the most important element of a candle.

The word wick comes from Old English "weyke or wicke", Anglo Saxon "wecca", and Germanic "wieche or wicke". It is a name for a bundle of fibers that when braided or twisted together are used to draw oil or wax up into a flame to be burned in a lamp or candle.

A wick without wax around it is just a piece of string. Because the wick is fibrous and absorbent, melted wax adheres to it easily. Dipping a wick in and out of melted wax several times builds up layers of wax, sufficient enough to make a taper candle.

The wick works by a principle called capillary action. Cotton fibers are spun into threads, which are bundled and braided together. The spaces between the cotton fibers, the threads, and braids act as capillaries, which cause liquids to be drawn into them. If you place a drop of water in the center of a paper towel you will see that the drop is absorbed and the wet spot expands. Where the expansion occurs is where capillary action is taking place, the candle wicking absorbs wax the same way.

Candle wicking is available in several types. Probably the most popular is the Flat Braid, or Regular wick. Different sized wicks cause different sized flames simply because of the number of threads in the bundles. Each thread is considered a plait or ply, and a given number of ply are bundled together.

With Flat Braid wick, usually only three bundles are braided together. It is braided in such a manner that all three bundles lie flat and is referred to by the number of plaits it contains. Example: (36 ply) - 3 bundles of 12 ply = 36 ply.

A 36 ply wick can draw a little bit more wax than a 30 ply wick can, which gives the 36 ply wick a larger flame. In turn, the larger flame produces a slightly larger melt pool. The purpose for the flatness of this wick is to curl over to the side when it burns. This curling of the wick helps to prevent excess smoking.

wax sources
There are two types of companies which process the paraffin wax used in candle making, the Petroleum Refinery and the Specialty Wax Processor.

petroleum refinery
Since wax is a byproduct of other products produced by the refineries, it does not always receive the highest regard in processing and packaging. Although it is processed to specific grades within given standards and tolerances, the 10 lb. or 11 lb. blocks are sometimes not uniform in shape, size, color, and surface texture. These waxes are also processed in batches, and the properties may vary from one batch to next. The variations are often caused by the chemical complexity of crude oil, and the difference in composition of the crude from one well to the next. These waxes are relatively inexpensive, and you may find that the prices could fluctuate with the economy and the relative cost of crude oil.

specialty wax processor
There are several companies who produce special blends of wax specifically for candle making. They create a wide variety of waxes for every type of candle imaginable. Since the wax is their business and not just a byproduct you can expect more uniform conformity in characteristics of a given wax. Maintaining the size and shape from one block to another are standard, while maintaining consistent formulation from one batch to the next are crucial for them to stay in business. You will find that these waxes can be significantly more costly.

block characteristics
The standard block of paraffin wax is 10 or 11 lbs. (depending upon the producer), and usually measures 1-1/2" or 2" x 11" x 19". It is generally translucent, almost (skim) milky white, with fine bubbles, mottling, and sometimes scales. Some variations may have fine cracks, fissures, and may crumble apart while others may appear to be perfectly smooth and solid.
hardness
The hardness of a wax is measured by a standardized process called "needle penetration." It is an indication of how far a needle can penetrate the wax at a temperature of 77E F. The higher the number, the softer the wax; the lower the number, the harder the wax.Generally, soft waxes are recommended for container candles and votives, medium waxes are for pillars, and hard waxes are for hurricane shells and overdips.
melt point
The melt point of a wax is the temperature that it starts to turn from a solid to a liquid, or from a liquid to a solid. To properly melt the wax for candle making it needs to be heated up to 190E F regardless of the specified melt point of the wax. (This is just a base line reference. Different techniques may require different wax temperatures.) Bringing the wax up to 190E F helps facilitate the incorporation of dyes and additives.

flash point
Most paraffin waxes have a flash point around 395E F. When it reaches its flash point it may not smoke or bubble, it will usually just explode, splattering flaming wax in all directions. To avoid this catastrophe, always use the double boiling method to melt your wax. Water boils at 212E F, which is well below the flash point of any paraffin wax.

breaking a block
The easiest method for breaking up a block of wax is to prop one end up on a block of wood with the other end on the ground. Hit it in the center with a hammer, make sure to follow through with the swing, and the block should roughly break in half. It is a good idea to use some safety glasses while breaking the waxes to avoid getting any pieces in your eyes. You can repeat the process with each piece until you end up with chunks that are about 2" x 4" x 4". These are small enough to easily fit into a standard melting pot.

effects of heating and cooling
When melted wax heats up, it expands and increases in volume. When the liquid wax cools down, it contracts and decreases in volume. The liquid wax cools and solidifies from the outside inward. As it cools it goes through gradual phases, from cloudiness, to a slush like consistency, to a paste like mass, and finally a solid. Paraffin is crystalline in nature, so as it cools the crystals "grow" in phase inward toward the center of the mass. Since wax contracts as it cools you will often find that the exposed surface becomes concave or "sinks" in. This is part of the nature of paraffin wax, and though it may be minimized it can not be prevented.

sinkhole
A sink hole in the bottom of a candle may be fixed by allowing the wax to cool, and then filling in the hole with more wax. It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times.

fumes
Paraffin wax is non-toxic. The scent you experience coming from hot melted wax is harmless, but may cause a reaction of nausea or dizziness with individuals with sensitive olfactory systems.
surface effects
The higher the temperature of the wax during the pour, the finer the finish will be on the exterior of the candle. We recommend pouring at about 190E F for a smooth finish on a pillar candle, and 170E F for a votive (made with low melt point wax). For a rustic "cold pour" look, pour the wax at about 10E F above the melt point of the wax, or lower.

Supplies for making taper candles:
Wax melting kit
An inexpensive double boiler setup that prevents the wax from reaching dangerously high temperatures. Also includes a thermometer and stir sticks. 136E F - 141E F melt point paraffin wax , beeswax , or bayberry wax .
A medium melt point wax is recommended for making taper candles. Bayberry wax is an exception with a melt point of about 116E F, but it is so hard that it works well for tapers.
Wick The wick you choose depends the diameter of your finished tapers and your wax formula. For standard 7/8" tapers, try 21 ply for paraffin and 1/0 square for beeswax.
Dipping vat
You can dip up to about 7" tapers right in your melting pot, but for taller candles you'll need a larger container.
Additives
Most popular for tapers are stearic powder (regular or vegetable), micro wax 175, and Poly AC-6A or 400.
Dye
Dozens of colors to choose from! Be sure to select a dye instead of a pigment for solid color throughout the candle, as pigments can clog the wick. To save on dye, you can make a uncolored core and then overdip with colored wax. Pigments are best for overdips.
Average start up cost
Approximately $80, plus shipping cost. Estimate includes all Required and Recommended items above, with 10-11 lbs. paraffin wax, dipping vat, and multiple dyes and additives. Makes about 125 six inch taper candles.
Also consider
161E F melt point wax Use as an overdip to make dripless tapers. This higher melt point shell will melt more slowly than the core, forming a cup that holds the melted wax.
Dipping ring
This handy unit allows you to dip up to 10 tapers at a time, up to 16" tall. For use with a dipping vat (will not fit into the melting pot).
Supplies for making pillar candles:
Wax melting kit
An inexpensive double boiler setup that prevents the wax from reaching dangerously high temperatures. Also includes a thermometer and stir sticks. 136E F - 141E F melt point paraffin wax or beeswax
A medium melt point wax is recommended for making pillar candles.
Wick
The wick you choose depends on the diameter of your mold and your wax formula.
Molds
Over 100 molds to choose from! Aluminum molds are more durable, and metal molds offer a more rustic look to your candles.
Mold sealer/wick holder bar or jiffy wicker
Needed to seal the wick hole in the mold.
Silicone mold release spray
Helps the candle to release from the mold more easily.
Additives
Most popular for pillars are Kemamide release powder, Vybar 103, stearic powder (regular or vegetable), and parol oil.
Dye
Dozens of colors to choose from! Be sure to select a dye instead of a pigment for solid color throughout the candle, as pigments can clog the wick.
Scent
Everyone's favorite candle ingredient! Recommended usage is 1/4 - 1 ounce of scent per pound of wax.
Mold cleaner
Sometimes wax sticks to the mold, and it's a good idea to clean it out after each use.
Average start up cost
Approximately $100, plus shipping cost.
Estimate includes all Required and Recommended items above, with 10-11 lbs. paraffin wax, and multiple 2 oz. scents, dyes, and additives.
Makes about ten to eleven 3" x 4.5" round pillar candles.
Base leveler
For straightening crooked candles and smoothing out the bottoms.

Preparing Your Candle making Area
Extreme care must be taken when you make candles. You will be dealing with boiling water and hot wax, which present potential burn hazards. Melting wax or additives in an improper manner can also present a fire hazard. Spilled liquid wax can create a terrible mess, and is actually more slippery than ice. Dyes and scents can cause permanent stains. It is very important that you exercise caution, and have specially prepared areas for making candles.
You will need to set up three specific areas.
Most likely you will be making your candles in your kitchen. A kitchen is suitable for candle making because you will need your stove for the Melting area, and there is usually ample counter space to serve as the Preparation and the Pouring/Cooling areas.

preparation: This is where you will need to get things set up before you start making your candles. It should be a sturdy, level surface free of clutter and near the stove. Keep your books, instructions, and notes here for quick and easy reference. Have your utensils, thermometer, pre-measured additives and pre-measured dyes, and paper towels standing by ready for use here. You should also have your safety items here, such as a fire extinguisher and first aid kit.
melting:
You can melt your wax using several methods. The recommendation is to use a steamer pot/double boiler to heat the water on your stovetop. You should have nothing else on or near the stove while you are melting wax.
pouring/cooling: A sturdy, level surface is necessary for pouring and cooling your candles. A kitchen table is fine, so long as it will be left undisturbed for several hours while the candles are curing.
If you have a dining table in a carpeted area you may not want to use this for your Pouring/Cooling area. The risk of spilling wax on that carpet is too great and should be avoided. A sizeable kitchen counter is suitable.
It is important that this area be free of drafts, direct sunlight, and heating/cooling systems, as these will affect the outcome of the candle.
You be will preparing your molds here, which you can do while the wax is melting. This is the area that will get the messiest. Spread a disposable plastic tablecloth over the area. Wax will likely spill while you are filling your molds, and you may even end up with a leak in a mold which could drain all the wax out of the mold and all over the Pouring/Cooling area. It is a good idea to have your molds on top of a cooking sheet that has a lip around it, or in a shallow cake pan. This way when you do experience a spill or leak, all the wax is confined to one small easily cleaned area. If you are careful you may reuse the tablecloth several times, but if the mess is too big, you can simply throw it away.
melting waxWhat you will need to melt your wax: candle wax
1 - box (empty)
1 pair of safety goggles
1 hammer
1 kitchen scale (1 lb. capability) or 8-1/2" x11" piece of paper
½ gallon of cool water
Heat source capable of boiling water, (kitchen stove)
1 roll paper towel

Standard Dripless Taper Candle Formula
Ingredients:
Core:
136E - 141E paraffin wax
Overdip:
161E paraffin wax
2-3 dye chips (or 1 pigment chip) per lb. of wax
1 tsp. Poly 400 per lb. of wax
Notes:
Core: Use 21 ply flat, raw wick . Dip core at approx. 155E F for best results. Soak wick in wax for a full minute before starting. Dip in cool water, or allow candle to cool for at least 30 seconds, between dips. Dip until candle measures about 6/8" in diameter at the bottom.
Overdip: Overdipping with a high temp wax makes the candle dripless. The core will melt more readily the overdip, forming a cup that holds the melted wax. Heat 161E wax to approx. 195E F for overdip. Dip 3-4 times or until base measures about 7/8" in diameter. Extra dye is needed for a bold color, but pigments are opaque so less is needed. Poly 400 makes the overdip harder and more opaque.

Basic Unscented Pillar Candle Formula
Ingredients:
1 lb. 139E paraffin wax
1 tsp. Kemamide release powder
1 dye chip
Makes enough for a 3" diameter x 4.5" tall candle.
Notes: A very deeply colored, translucent formula with a glossy finish.Scent tends to cloud or "mottle" the wax, but when no scent is used, no additives are necessary to produce a clean-looking candle with this wax.
Kemamide is added only to aid in removing the candle from the mold.Recommended wick (for 3" diameter): 36 ply waxed

Basic Scented Pillar Candle Formula
Ingredients:
1 lb. 139E paraffin wax
1 tsp. Kemamide release powder
1 dye chip
½ oz. scent
½ tsp. Vybar 103
Makes enough for a 3" diameter x 4.5" tall candle.
Notes: A very opaque formula, with medium color and a glossy finish.The vybar helps to blend the scent with the wax, eliminating the mottled effect, which would be present without the additive. It also helps to hold the scent in, and then releases it when the candle is burned.
Use double the amount of dye for a richer, deeper color. The dark specks on the top of the candle are bits of undissolved dye; a little more mixing would have eliminated them.Recommended wick (for 3" diameter): 30 ply waxed