Basic Emergency Preparedness
In survival as in all aspects of life, it is easier to be organized if we prioritize. The priorities, during a disaster or emergency are, in order: shelter, water, sanitation, medications, and then food. We will be focusing on the first three. Keep in mind “Disaster”(that means good chance no power, heat or electricity).
So plan for every contingency, “When Ye Are Prepared…Ye Shall Not Fear”

Survival Goals…..What You NEED!!!
Shelter: Clothes (both regular and for extreme weather)
Sleeping bag, pad/cot and a Good Tent
Sanitation: Hand Washing, Teeth, Bathing Supplies,
Clothes Washing , Drying Supplies,
Toilet and additives, Hygiene Supplies, disposal plan,
Garbage Disposal supplies and plan
Water: Stored Water (15-110 gallons minimum-per person) and supplies
Purifying Plan and Supplies and Good Filter/Purifier


SHELTER
You can live 4-6 weeks without food; 3-5 days without water; but hypothermia will kill you in 30 minutes. Therefore, shelter is the first priority! Shelter may be defined as anything that protects the human element from nature’s elements. In putting together a good short-term preparedness kit, you may think it necessary to initially purchase items that are of inferior quality. There is no economy in going second class. Quality tents and sleeping bags are critical and should be considered a serious investment, with a little time and effort you can find quality items that are in your budget. After all, your life and the lives of your family are in the balance! We will be touching on 3 areas of shelter: clothing, sleeping bags and tents.
Clothing

In any disaster your first shelter is what you wear. Disaster could strike in the middle of winter. It could be rainy or very windy or both. You may not be in a position to just stay safe and warm in your house. That is why it is so important you have proper clothing, have it ready and all together in an area that would be fast and easy to get to. Sturdy shoes/socks, and some clothing should be next to your bed (along with a lightstick or flashlight) easy to grab at a moments notice.

It is easier to survive in the summer with winter clothes
than in the winter with summer clothes.

Clothing is not usually considered in planning for a disaster. Yet, it is something that is advised by church leaders and common sense. Finding suitable clothing will be a very real concern in a disaster. In normal times when your clothes wear out or they are outgrown, you just drive to the store and buy what you need. When there is an emergency, normal commerce stops. If it is a small problem, like a power outage you will have plenty to wear, however, if it is a long lasting emergency such as a pandemic or a natural disaster, it could be months before shopping is available. If you want to have clothes for your family in an emergency situation you will need to get them now. Do you live in a cool northern area or a warmer southern one? This will affect what you store.

Suggested Clothing Minimums
(per person - double for year supply*)
2 pairs sturdy pants* 3 long sleeve shirts*
3 short sleeve shirts* 5 pairs of underwear
3 undershirts* 5 pairs of socks*
1 sweatshirts* 1 light jacket
1 pair sneakers * 1 heavy coat
1 warm hat* 1 pair warm gloves/mittens*
1 sturdy pair shoes (opt)

You may already have most of these; however, if you have growing children storing clothes poses a problem, especially for pants and shoes. Sweatpants are good for storing; if the children or you grow taller or rounder they will still fit.
Shoes may be the most difficult clothing problem we have. The shoe purchase procedure is the same as with your other clothing concerns: figure out what each child will need for at least 1 year, allowing for growth, buy it now and put it away.

HINT: Put all your clothes into a plastic bag (or as much as you can fit into it). Then wrap the mouth of the bag around your vacuum hose. Turn the vacuum cleaner on, suck air out when shrunk, quickly but carefully remove vacuum tube and tie bag tightly. Helps keep out dirt and bugs too.

You don’t have to buy everything new for adults or children you can find; hand-me-downs, thrift shops, yard sales, end of season sales. If you find a good source of inexpensive clothes, buy lots of things in all the average sizes. Remember that most people will not be at all prepared for a crash so any clothes you don’t need will be excellent barter items. Also some church clothes would be a great addition for longer term storage.

For Areas with Extreme Cold / Precipitation
1 set PALS Clothes 1 pair good winter boots 1 good Rain Suit (Harbor freight)

“Anyone can be truly warm and comfortable at temperatures from above freezing to well below Zero with ease. It's not magic, it's science. The technology and equipment have been in development for over 30 years. We call it "P.A.L.S." (The Phillips Arctic Living System). P.A.L.S. is an approach to winter clothing with performance advantages over anything you've ever worn. Simply described, the P.A.L.S. clothing system will (when properly used) keep you dryer and warmer than other layered technology clothing on the market.” Jim Phillips
jimsway.com preparemyfamily.com foamclothing.com


1” Foam Clothes Winter Boots Rain Suit

This may seem a bit extreme to some of you. However, there may come a time when you will find clothing like this invaluable. If you are in a position to make or purchase these, it would be a really good idea.

Great Resource
Some of our information can be found in this manual. It is highly recommended that you get your own copy. You can buy one, already bound or you can down load off web.
LDS Preparedness Manual
A FREE electronic version of this manual can be downloaded from
http://www.abysmal.com
THIS MANUAL MAY BE SOLD AT COST ONLY - AND IS NOT TO BE OFFERED FOR RESALE
Sleeping Bags and Pads
(By Larry Bethers, slackpacker.com)
A sleeping bag is a critical piece of survival equipment, especially in winter. Emergency survival situations rarely occur on warm sunny days, and you can just about bet it will be on a dark, rainy or snowy night when the world comes apart. Be respectful of your sleeping bag, it could be the driest, warmest most comfortable sanctuary available when all else is wet, cold and out of control.

How Sleeping Bags Work
A sleeping bag traps and holds air around your body. Your body warms the air, which is in turn insulated by the sleeping bag. These fabric sheets are stuffed with various types of material to trap air for insulation and comfort. Look for hoods too.
HINT: A fleece sleeping bag liner will add 10º-20º more in insulation value.
Types of Sleeping Bags
The two main shapes of sleeping bags are mummy and rectangular. These two shapes can each be filled with either down or synthetic fill.
Mummy bags are tapered at the feet and insulate most effectively.
Rectangular bags permit more movement and comfort.
.
Evaluating and Comparing Sleeping Bags
Compare each bag for: temperature or comfort rating, total overall weight, size when compressed, overall size, and types of insulation,
Temperature or comfort rating describes the minimum temperature the bag is designed for. The ratings the manufacturer provides are only a guide. Select a bag with a temperature rating that exceeds the low end of the temperature range you expect. Look for a bag rated +35° for summer camping, +10° to +35° for spring and fall, a 0º bag for cold weather or high altitude, and an "Extreme" or -30º bag for winter camping or if you get cold easily. If a +20° F bag sounds right for you, a +10° bag would be better. If you easily get too hot you can always undo the zipper to cool down.
Total overall weight: If you are just using it for “camping” then weight isn’t really a concern. Fill weight just refers to the insulation weight.
Size when compressed. This is a personal choice.
Overall size is not to be taken lightly. Do you need a "regular" or "long" model? The general rule is as follows: If you are no taller than 6 feet, choose a "regular" length bag. If you are up to 6-feet-6, you want a "long" bag. If your waistline is more than 40", you want a "long" bag. Bags that can zip together are also helpful.
Down filled bags weigh less and provide better insulation than synthetic-filled bags. They also compress into smaller shapes and tend to be of better quality. However, if they get wet their insulation value goes down to nothing.
Synthetic insulation bags are filled with materials such as Qualofill, Polarguard, Thermolite, Hollofil, or Lamilite which will keep you very warm on cold nights. They are bulkier than down bags and weigh more but they cost less, and a wet synthetic bag can be wrung out when wet, and will still work well in keeping you warm
Sources: cabelas.com, rei-outlet.com, sportsmansguide.com or local sport goods store.

Sleeping Pad

Sleeping pads perform 2 important functions -- first, they keep you comfortable when you're sleeping on hard, uneven ground. Second, they provide an important layer of insulation between you and the ground (to cut down on conductive heat loss).
How do they work? Sleeping pads insulate the same way that sleeping bags and clothing layers do. They trap and hold a layer of dead (non-circulating) air between your body and the cold (in this case, the cold ground). Your body gradually warms this layer of dead air and it becomes an insulating barrier. The insulative performance of a pad depends upon how much air it holds inside and how free that air is to circulate.
Things to think about when Choosing a Pad
The kinds of weather you expect- Plan for extreme cold. The level of comfort you want while sleeping- some people prefer to save money, space and weight by sticking with very basic pads. Others prefer to spend (and carry) a little more to stay as comfortable as possible in the wilderness.
How much extra weight you want to carry with you- Thicker, more comfortable. Consider Your Sleeping Pad Options
Air mattresses- basic, inflatable air bladders (do not use pool mattresses)Positives- They're comfortable, adjustable and inexpensive. Negatives- They are heavy, bulky and they can be punctured/ripped easily. Air inside is free to circulate, so they tend to be poor insulators. Bad Choice. Open-cell foam pads- sponge-like foam pads made up of tiny, open air cells Positives- They're comfortable, lightweight and inexpensive. The cells restrict air circulation, so they are also more effective insulators than air mattresses. Negatives- It is absorbent (bad if wet), is less insulating than closed-cell(must be four times as thick to get the same insulation). Bulky, difficult to roll and not very durable. Closed-cell foam pads- Made of dense foam filled with tiny closed air cells Positives- They're cheap, durable (won't pop when tromped on) and extremely insulative (almost no circulation of air in pad. Closed-cell foam is also non-absorbent. Negatives- Relatively stiff and firm, with far less cushioning than open-cell foam Self-inflating pads- open-cell foam pads wrapped in air-tight, waterproof nylon shells. Positives- As comfortable as open-cell foam, good insulation and don’t soak up water. They're adjustable (opening built-in air valves let you control the amount of air inside and thus the firmness of the pad) and they're extremely compact when rolled up. Negatives- They're more expensive than the options listed above. Can be punctured or ripped (though field repairs are not difficult). Heavier than open- or closed Memory Foam: Gets hard below 60%, Really Bad Choice Try Before You Buy: check for comfort, ease of use, and quality. BAD CHOICE Sources: cabelas.com, sportsmansguide.com or sporting goods store.

Cots

Extra wide/long Bunk Bed Single w/storage Double-wide
Cots have a similar purpose as pads, they add more comfort in sleeping and will give the added bonus of storage under the cot. Cots have the added benefit in the summertime of air flow underneath, however, in the winter you will need to add an air barrier under your bag. They come in a variety of sizes; for kids, extra long and wide, double-decked, double-wide, and short and tall. A couple of online places where they can be found are:
www.beprepareddirect.com
http://www.cabelas.com/
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/
Tents
“1 Nephi 2:4 - And it came to pass that [we] departed into the wilderness. And [we] left [our] house, and the land of [our] inheritance, and [our] gold, and [our] silver, and [our] precious things, and took nothing with [us], save it were [our] family, and provisions, and tents, and departed into the wilderness.

Just like your house you want your tent to be able to protect you from the elements. A fierce wind, or a drenching downpour tests the effictiveness of any tent, especially if it is not built to take abuse. Your tent is an expensive investment, if it is properly treated, will provide years of service. Get the right tent, and you can expect years of dependable shelter from almost any storm you might encounter. There are many types of tents and you may want to have a combination: screen tents, summer tent, cooking tent, 3-Season Tent, and a 4-Season or Winter Tent.

Screen Summer 3 Season 4 Season

Kinds of Tents
Summer and ScreenThese tents are primarily a shade provider for summer outings, and the large space design is perfect for summer family camping. A roof protects against light summer rains, and large mesh panels are designed in almost every wall to keep the breeze flowing in and the insects out. They can come in many varieties, including several models that are all screen, providing bug proof shelter in the shade, perfect for outdoor food preparation, eating and bug free chatting. While good for summer months, the excessive ventilation will result in chilly times and are worthless in wind, rain or snow. Adding heavy duty tarp over top protects from rain/snow. (Walmart, Costco, Kmart, Sportsmansguide.com etc)
Cooking Tent: You will want to have a separate tent for cooking/washing. There are a couple of reasons for this. You don’t want the walls, sleeping bags, etc. to have a coating of cooking grease on them and more importantly you don’t want the inside of your sleeping quarters to have even the smell of food which every camper knows is an invitation for insects and varmints small and LARGE to visit you. It needs to be well ventilated and can have an eating area.
Three-Season Three-season tents are for just that - protection for you in spring, summer or fall. Usually, they will have numerous options for ventilation such as mesh ceiling panels and windows. However, they are also provided with a sturdy rain fly that can be quickly installed to protect against downpours, dampen the wind, and hold in heat on those cold spring and fall nights. Some three-season tents are even convertible to four-season, or winter tents. These models will have a zippered nylon panel that can be used to block off all of the ventilation panels, giving you an option for all seasons.
Four-SeasonA four-season tent has to live up to steep expectations which your trusty three-season tent would be hard-pressed to meet. It should keep out the cold, stand up to strong winds, brush off heavy snow, and generally repel all forms of precipitation. It also should ventilate well. In dry, cold air, you exhale about a liter of moisture overnight. If trapped inside the tent, that moisture will transform into a shimmering skin of frost covering your walls and ceiling come morning, frost that can"snow" down on your bag and clothing or melt during the day, rendering your tent wet and heavy. High-end winter tents feature hooded, zippered vents that can be left open in any weather. These vents are usually located at the top of the tent so warm, moist air can escape. At a minimum, you'll want a tent with two-way zippers on the tent body and rain fly doors. That way you can leave a crack open at the top of the tent rather than at the bottom, to release moisture without directing an icy draft on sleeping campers. They come with extras such as a removable floor panel to put in a wood burning stove, and a stove jack for the roof.
Tent Styles

A-Frame Dome Wall Tent Tipi
Modified A-frame: Named for it’s “A “shape. It has a center hoop pole or diagonal center poles which causes the sidewalls to be angled outward to increase the space within. This increases the lateral stability, helping the tent to hold its own against the wind.
Dome Tents: They come in many shapes and sizes that slightly resemble a curved dome. They are very strong due to their shape and the modern materials used in the frames and covers. The curved sidewalls shed rain and snow, causing it to run off before it can collect and with no straight walls wind is deflected. Dome tents are also freestanding. This means you can put the tent together without first staking it down. Then you can position it on the desired location and secure it with stakes. Domes are constructed with interconnected bars that criss-cross, forming a frame to support the fabric. The result is a large room inside the tent with up to 50% more room than the A-frame design. The number and strength of the poles determine the amount of structural stability. Some with their criss-crossing poles can handle hurricane force winds.
Wall Tents: They have been around for hundreds of years and proven themselves in all types of weather. They can be any size. A big down side to wall tents is their weight, flat walls that resist high winds and guide ropes that extend far beyond the sides.
Tipi: The best design was by the Plaines tribes. They were the innovators of the open flap at the top to be adjusted for air circulation in hot or cold weather. The flaps also allow for an open fire inside. Tipi's can be small or extremely large. Tipi's are heavy and have long poles to consider when transporting. They are wind resistant due to their shape.
Other Considerations
Real Size Vestibule Poles Material Stakes
Size: The size of a tent is normally quantified by how many people can sleep on the floor if packed together like sardines. You really need to check out the actual floor dimensions of each model since the "man" ratings can definitely be misleading. If it says 4 man, that may really mean sleeping for 2 along with some supplies.
Weight: Weight is a consideration because you will have to move your tent. It is great if it can be divided up in 50 lb or less packages, instead of one, large 100+ lb package that would take many men and a truck to move.
Vestibules: Vestibules are the front or back porches of camp life. They are usually created by an extension of the rain fly, and therefore, they usually have no floor. What they do have is some extra room, providing an extended dry area to store packs, boots and other camp items, especially when they are wet or muddy. Some of these are more elaborate and roomy with additional support poles for the vestibule, actually creating a small second room.
Poles are very important in a tent design; they are the foundation and framing that holds up your tent home. Steel poles are used in family and cabin tents. They are strong and provide sturdy support, but they are heavy. Aluminum poles are more expensive, but they are also substantially lighter in weight and offer greater strength. All aluminum poles are not created equal. If you are looking for performance under severe conditions, such as four-season a 6000-7000 series alloy provides a bit more strength. Tent Fabric Coatings: One confusing number you may see in tent specifications is related to the waterproof coating on the tent fabric. A decent value for waterproofness is 1000mm; however, if you plan to use your tent often in wet conditions and severe weather, you should look for a value closer to 1500mm. Some floors are even rated 3000, don't look for values any higher than that, they break down too easy.
Stakes: In mild weather, staking merely keeps the floor taut; however, if you expect windy conditions, good-long stakes are recommended
Extras: Hammer, shovel (to flatten out area), tarp (for under tent), broom, repair kit
Practice Makes Perfect: Don’t wait until a disaster strikes to put together your tent. Have several dry runs either on a weekend campout or in the backyard for weekend sleepouts.

Where to Find Good Tents
Wall tents
walltentshop.com montanacanvas.com springbar.com deluxewalltents.com, rainiertents.com davistent.com cabelas.com
Tipireliabletent.com reesetipis.com
Dome
cabelas.com turtletuffshelters.com sportsmansguide.com
Shelter Goals: Appropriate Clothes and shoes for each family member
Good Sleeping bag and if possible pad or cot (per person)
A Good Tent
SANITATION
The biggest cause of death after the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami in 2004 that initially killed over 230,000 was the lack of clean water and poor sanitation practices in the weeks and months AFTER the wave hit. During times of emergency it is critical that sanitation be strictly observed in the cleaning of clothing, bedding materials, and all kitchen and food preparation utensils. Typhoid fever, amoebic dysentery, diarrhea, infectious hepatitis, salmonella and Giardia are diseases that spread rapidly in times of emergency and threaten all, yet are all diseases that can easily be controlled by simply following the rules of good sanitation.
Body

Hand Washing Sanitizer Wipes Brushing Sponge Bath Solar Shower


Hand Washing / Sanitizer: Keeping hands clean by washing often with an anti-bacterial liquid soap and or with use of sanitizer is extremely important in unclean conditions. Wipes also helpful to wipe hands and faces.
Goal: 3 bottles per person of each PLUS lotion to prevent drying and cracking of skin.

Teeth: Having clean teeth not only helps you feel better but reduces infections of the gums. (swish with Hydrogen Peroxide good for infections)
Goal: 1 toothbrush, 1 floss and 1 tube toothpaste per person

Sponge Water Baths: Water is precious resource in emergencies. When you need to bathe, use a small amount of water and sponge/washcloth to wash, share water, if possible (no illness) cleanest to dirtiest.
Goal: Small tub; washcloth, soap, towel (per person)

Shower: (if enough water) Solar Showers and propane heated showers are available as well as portable shower enclosures that include a shelf for the solar shower.
Available at: SportsmansGuide.com and Cabelas.com.


5-gal solar shower Solar Shower Heater Propane Shower Heater Portable Shower









Clothes
In emergency situations that last longer than a few days, you will need to wash at the very least your underclothes and socks to prevent fungal growth/infections. You will need the following supplies: Tub, plunger, heavy rubber gloves (to protect hands), clothes line, clothes pins, laundry soap, and washboard/brush.

Washing Clothes


Hand Washing In Buckets Washer Board Rapid Washer Wonder Washer

To wash your clothes there are several methods available:
Hand Washing: Let clothes soak in soapy water 1 hour before washing You can wash in a tub scrubbing then squeezing and scrunching and swishing and scrubbing them around with your hands and against each other; using a floor scrubbing brush on the work clothes that are very dirty; let the dirty water out, fill up again with clean water, swish it all about, let it out again, fill it up with clean water again, swish about, then the stuff is clean! ). It takes about 15 minutes (not including soak time) to wash and rinse a large load of laundry without power.... You can use cold water (if warm water is wanted can heat in black tub in sun (summer) or on stove).
Bucket: Use a 5-6 gal. bucket with a 2” hole cut in lid, use clean toilet plunger or a rapid washer, Use 2 buckets; one for washing, one for rinsing. (the rinse tub then becomes the wash tub to save water).
Washboard or Soft Brush: for really dirty clothes (Lehmans.com)Rapid Washer (Lehman.com $13): plunger type washer, much more effective than hand-washing alone. All you do is raise and lower it like a plunger. The special internal baffle sends water rushing through clothes to flush out dirt.)
Wonder Washer (Emergency Essentials $47): The Wonder Washer has a 15 quart capacity and is great for camping and for emergency use.

Wringing and Drying

Mop Ringer Clothes Wringer Clothesline Drying Racks


Wringer: After rinsing run through ringer to remove excess water
(Lehmans.com $135-185, Ebay, 2nd hand Store).
You can twist clothes or use mop wringer but does not wring out as much water.
Drying: (lehmans.com)
Summer... hang the clothes outside on clothesline. For heavy clothes return every once in a while and squeeze the water from the bottoms.Winter...Use accordion -style wooden racks to dry the clothes near the woodstove.
Goal: Washing tub and implements; laundry soap; drying implements

Laundry Soap
(http:www.thefamilyhomestead.com.laundrysoap.htm)
You can store your own favorite liquid soap or make your own for pennies a load.

Liquid Soap Homemade Ingredients Homemade Liquid
Homemade Dry Laundry Detergent
(1-2 T. per load / 56 loads)
1 c. Bar Soap, Grated into fine flakes (Fels Naptha /Zote ½ bar or Ivory 1-bar)
Zote found at 99 Cent Store; Fels Naptha at Walmart or Albertsons laundry isle1 c. Powdered Borax (20 Mule team Borax) found at Walmart- laundry isle1 c. Washing Soda (NOT Baking Soda- Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda.)
Found at Albertsons (I special ordered mine)
Homemade Liquid Laundry Soap (hard water version)
(1/2 - 3/4 c. per load/64 loads) $0.02 per load
http://www.metacafe.com/fplayer/8219...undry_soap.swf (video)
For One Year Supply: 1-Box Washing Soda, 2-box Borax, 9-bars soap
6 c. Hot Water
1/2 bar Fels Naptha Soap, finely grated (can use Zote or Ivory) see above
3/4 c. Washing Soda (A & H) see above 3/4 c. Borax (20 mule team) see above
2 gal bucket w/ lid to mix in 4 c. Hot water & 1 gal + 6 c. cold water
½ -1 oz essential oil (for fragrance) Optional
Mix grated soap in a sauce pan with 6 c. water and heat on low until dissolved. Takes about 20 minutes. Stir in Washing Soda and Borax. Stir until thickened and remove from heat. Put 4 c. water to bucket, add soap mixture and mix well, add in essential oil (opt). Add cold water stir. Let sit for 24 hours and it will gel. Store covered or used liquid laundry soap bottles; keep labeled. This is a low, sudsing soap. It can be used in HE machines. For really dirty cloths, use ¾ c. soap and/or Oxyclean.
Homemade Fabric Softener (1/4 c. per load)
2 c. cold water 1 c. baking soda 1 c. vinegar
Place baking soda in LARGE bowl and pour vinegar over it; while it's bubbling, pour cold water in and mix. Store in sealed container and shake before using to combine all ingredients. Add 1/4 cup of mixture to rinse water.
Dishes

Washing: Wash dishes in hot water with anti-bacterial soap whenever possible, rinse in sanitized water and allow to air dry (germs can hide in towels). You can sanitize dishes in a solar cooker (leave in for 1 hour in full sun).
Sanitized Water: Steramine 1-G Tablets: Kills Viruses and Bacteria: Add one tablet to one gallon of water: sanitizes food surfaces as well as doors, counters, shelf life 10+ years (kept dry) and they are portable – 1 bottle=150 gal. Cost $8 (thestuffoutlet.com)
Drying Dishes: Let air dry on rack instead of towel drying.
Other Ideas
Paper Products(cups/plates/utensils/napkins)are very useful if low water supply.
Be careful storing, handling, and eating of food to avoid illnesses.
Human Waste / Garbage Disposal
What will you do if your toilet stops flushing and no one is coming to take your garbage away? If an emergency like this happens you MUST find a way to safely dispose of the human waste (sewage) and garbage yourself. If you don’t, you will soon be spending most of your time and energy treating sick people, including yourself.
The three most important things to do are:

Bury or store all garbage and human waste at least 100 feet away from water wells or open water and at least 18 inches deep.
Keep flies, roaches and animals out of the sewage and garbage.
Wash or clean your hands whenever you handle something dirty, BEFORE you touch something that might be touched by someone else.

Human Waste


Water Off Plug Drains Brush Heavy Gloves Sanitizer Trash Bags Privy


If no water service. Turn off water, plug drain to shower/tub and toilets with rubber ball, in old sock (sock is to make removal easier), covered in Vaseline (prevents backup smells).

Other things you will definitely want to have on hand:

Hygiene
Toilet Paper (6 rolls per person, per month)
Flannel Squares (reusable TP)(4”double thick/edged, put in bleach/water after use, wash)
Peri Bottles – used to rinse off (if lots of water available) (Overstock.com)
Feminine Hygiene Products (sanitary pads/ tampons)

Privy (potty room): Ropes/sheets-tarps, Portable (Cabelas.com), or Outhouse

Additives- with either the Home Toilet or a Portable toilet you will need add one of the following to help break down “your deposit” and keep the smell down.
Powdered Lime & Borax: Sprinkle “your deposit” with 1 T. each, keep in covered pail (found at Lowe’s by bricks-$8.50 for 50 lb.bag) For family of 6 - 6 months.
Bio-Gels (digester/deodorant): Put one packet of each in (Walmart)

Goal: Toilet; additive; toilet brush, sanitizer; shovel; toiletries; Privy, hygiene supplies
13-gallon trash bags (trash compacter bags- Costco $12=60 bags).



Emergency Toilets
After every “deposit” sprinkle with 2 T. Lime /Borax mix. (see below) or use Bio-Gel products (according to directions). Keep toilets covered when not in use.

Non-Composting Human Waste Disposal: Change bag when ½ full. Tightly close top of bag. Carefully put in pail or something sturdy to move bag (really bad when bag rips open) then bury it at least 18” deep because dogs can sniff through 16” of dirt and they will dig it up and then the rodents will LOVE it. If the ground is frozen use a pick ax. If you don’t have a yard to bury it in find one. If you won’t have to unbury bag, when bag is in bottom of hole poke a couple holes with shovel and then cover completely with dirt. Leave extra dirt piled so you remember where you buried it.

Home Toilet Conversion: With water turned off, flush toilet a couple of times to completely drain the toilet boil. While wearing gloves, spray toilet with a 10-1 water to bleach solution, wash then dry thoroughly. Put rubber ball, in old sock, smothered in Vaseline and shove tightly into hole. Line the bowl with a sturdy plastic bag and tape down with duct tape. Put sturdy 13-gallon, trash bag inside the line toilet and either tape down or lower seat to hold in place..

Portable Toilets: These are plastic buckets with seats that are used like the Home Toilet Conversion, except you only use one Heavy (2-3 ply) 13 gallon bag in the bucket. Large families might want to have two.


Bucket Luggable Loo Collapsible Hassock Trench Bio-Gel

Bucket: a bucket with a toilet seat resting on top.
Luggable Loo: 5 gallon bucket with seat and cover combo that effortlessly snaps-on and-off for easy assembly and cleaning. $18
Collapsible: Folding toilet chair, with padded seat, it uses bags for waste $24
Hassock: Lightweight, self-contained toilet. It has a removable inner bucket that allows for easy disposal. Lid has storage for one roll of toilet paper. $34
Found at: Walmart, Sportsmansguide.com, Cabelas.com, beprepared.com

Trench Latrine (for longer term): Use a shovel to dig a pit 4-6 feet deep and 1 foot wide. Place a bucket/box/ barrel or anything with a hole in it that you can sit on over the pit. Whatever you do you MUST cover the pit and toilet tightly so that flies cannot get in it while no one is using it. Clean seat regularly with water/bleach solution. When the pit fills to within eighteen inches of the top, fill the hole with clean dirt and mound it over.







Composting Toilets
A long term method of disposing human waste is found in the Humanure Handbook, it can be download for free at http://www.weblife.org/humanure. If anyone is serious to understand the best way to approach human feces, then this book is a must read.

Poop Bible Sawdust Toilet Comp. Schedule Family Humanure Piles
Using a Sawdust Toilet http://home.earthlink.net/~tabletophomestead/potty.html“The sawdust toilet works on the principle of aerobic (with air) decomposition, as opposed to sewer, septic or lagoon systems that use anaerobic (absence of air) decomposition. Aerobic decomposition is what makes compost, leaf litter, etc. and results in an earthy smell. The sawdust toilet can consist of a 5-gallon bucket housed in a box. It's "flushed" by covering with dry, organic material. We found that sawdust works best and provides as much odor control as a conventional flush toilet. When the bucket is full, it's covered and taken out to the composting area and dumped. The fresh contents are covered with some of the older compost. The bucket is washed out, sprayed with a bit of bleach water and returned to the box. In the year that we've used it, we've noticed no flies, no worms, no evidence of animal activity and no odor from the composting area. After about 9 months we started a new pile, and now the original pile is decomposing nicely and has shrunk to less than 1/2 it's initial size. The whole project has worked so well that we've decided that in our situation it just doesn't make sense to waste good water with poop.” Human manure can be composted with organic garbage.
Composting Additives-
Organic (sawdust, leaves, shredded paper, grass clippings, etc)
Put 2 inches in bottom of “toilet”. When done with “your deposit” cover completely with 1 inch of composting material. When bucket is ½ full dump in middle of composting pile and cover with layer of hay or other organic material.
Garbage
Garbage is trash that has food or anything else it in that would attract insects, rats or other critters. It should not be allowed to accumulate where these pests can get into it. If garbage service is expected to resume in a few days then dry garbage should be tightly sealed in bags or kept in tightly covered garbage cans. If garbage service is out for more several weeks and you are unable to store it, then whatever can’t be reused, or fed to the animals should be burned or buried. Avoid keeping garbage inside the shelter.
Bagging: Crush containers to make them smaller. Garbage should be drained before being placed in storage containers. If liquids are strained away, garbage may be stored for a longer period of time without developing an unpleasant odor. Liquid wastes that don’t have a lot of fat in them can be poured out outside if kept more that 100 feet from open bodies of water and water wells. Keep all garbage in a closed container. A tight-fitting lid is important to keep out flies and other insects.
Burying: If no can space is available in covered containers, dig a hole deep enough to cover trash with at least 18-24 inches of dirt, which will prevent insect breeding and discourage animals from digging it up. If burial is not possible then it will have to be burned.
Burning (not toilet paper) To burn garbage you must use a metal barrel with holes in the bottom and a grate or screen over the top to act as a spark arrester to prevent wildfires. Only dry garbage should be burned. Wet garbage should be buried.
Garbage Goal: Heavy Trash bags; shovel; covered trash cans; matches (to burn trash).
WATER
(grampadave.com)
Water is essential for life. Most of us just take it for granted. We turn on the faucet and clean clear water comes out day and night. It is not until some major disaster or calamity occurs that the true value of water truly becomes apparent. In some cases it becomes “more valuable than gold.” Many of us may be prepared with our 72 hour emergency kits which contain a bottle or two of water. But how many of us are really prepared for an emergency that could last for a week, a month, several months….and yes, perhaps even up to a year.”

The new guidelines from providentliving.com are “Store enough drinking water for circumstances in which the water supply may be polluted or disrupted. Water is more essential that food in sustaining life.”

There is much information out there about storing water. The following are some ideas of what is the best and safest way to store and treat water.
Store clean water before the crisis.

Store at LEAST 15 gallons per person, 2-55 gallon per person preferable, and THEN purchase some type of water filter/purifier that will allow you to make available a larger supply of safe drinking water. Also important: bung wrench, pump and white plastic hose.
Other Sources of drinking water: Toilet Tanks and Water Heater; pool for washing water.


15 gal. 2-55 Gallon PETE Filter Wrench RV Hose 5-gal jug IBC Pillow Tank

STORING WATER
How Much? Two Gallons, per person, per day
FEMA recommends a minimum of ½ gallon per person per day; more for children or in times of stress or in hot climates. Most recommendations are 1 gallon per person per day for drinking. Allow more for first aid, cooking, cooling down, etc. (minimum 2 gallons per person per day)
(recommended minimum: 2-55 gallon barrel per person = 4 - 8 week supply)

How to Store?
New 55 gallon food grade barrels (blue) BEST for drinking Cheapest and easiest way to store water. New barrels are safest for drinking water as they will not taint the water in any way and do not provide a residual food source for bacteria or any residual tastes. Used barrels are safe for washing or drinking IF you can purify and filter to be sure water is safe. Cost: New $55-90 Used: $10-20.
Other ideas:
Blue Plastic Drums (5, 15, and 30 gallon)
Totes (hard and soft) 100+ gallon (atlinc.com)
5-6 gallon Mylar water storage bags in cardboard boxes, or collapsible jugs
2 liter clear plastic soda bottles with screw on lids (PETE), bottled water
NOT soft plastic water bottles (leak) or bleach bottles/milk jugs (not safe).
Where to Store
Store where easily accessible for emergency use and water source to fill. Best stored in dark, cool place. Can be stored outside, off of ground, covered, in shade if possible. Store away from insecticides, petroleum or anything else with a strong odor.
Cleaning Barrels
FEMA recommends that used containers to be used for storing water be rinsed with a diluted bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water before filling and roll around to clean then empty and rinse thoroughly (use regular Clorox Bleach - must not contain soaps or scents). Also can be cleaned with hot, soapy pressure washer at car wash. New barrels just need to be rinsed out.
Filling 55 Gallon Barrels
Put barrel where it will be stored (weighs @450 lbs when full). Use white plastic hose* to fill allowing water to run clear for a few minutes before filling to wash out any sitting water. Clean water in, clean water out. Fill, leaving 2”space at top to allow for freezing. Use bung wrench to tighten tops when done filling
*White Hose: (can be found at RV suppliers / Walmart NOT rubber garden hose (Consumer Report May 2003 “Dare you Drink from a Garden Hose”)
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/search.htm?query=garden+hose+drinking
New Barrels: fill with clean water.
Used Barrel : clean water and 1/4 c. bleach/additive; purify with good filter before drink
Rotating
New: 1 year or 5 years (with additive) Used: every year w/ bleach, longer with additive

Other Needs
Bung Wrenches- required to open and close
Pump or Siphons- to pump water out of barrels (at least 2)
Portable Dispensers- 5 gallon jugs; easy house usage and for evacuating


Treating Water
(Mark Mazour:)
Remember: During a crisis you must consider all water (including ground water or tap water) to be contaminated and dangerous and it should be purified and before drinking. Water may look and smell okay, but bacteria or microorganisms or toxins with nice little names like Giardia, Lamblia or Cryptosporidium may still be lurking in the water waiting to cause gastrointestinal problems. It is crucial to use only treated water for; drinking, cooking, dish rinsing, hand washing, cleaning, cooking, bathroom surfaces, any prepared drinks, making ice cubes and brushing teeth.
Treating Water 2 Step Process: Purify (kills pathogens) and filtering (removes chemicals, metal, VOC’s, nitrates, silt and sediments) and makes it taste good.

Ways to Purify
In order to kill pathogens in water you have to purify it. This can be done by: boiling; with the Sun; with Aerobic Stabilized Oxygen; with ozone; with chemicals (Purification tablets or Iodine or bleach); or with distillation. These methods will kill the bacteria/viruses but won’t do anything for the taste or getting rid of chemicals or heavy metals. For that you want a good filter. Pool water NOT safe to drink even if filtered.


Boiling Pasteuration WAPI A.S. O2 Tablets Iodine Distilling

Boiling: Boiling has been the traditional way to treat water. It does a good job of killing parasites, bacteria, and viruses but it does not neutralize any chemicals or improve the taste. The drawback is that this method requires a LOT of time and fuel. To use this method, boil water 5-10 minutes plus one minute for every thousand feet over sea level.

Solar purification: http://www.solarcooking.org/pasteurization/metcalf.htm
http://www.solarcooking.org/pasteurization/default.htm#WAPIs
When water is heated to 165º for 10 minutes it kills all bacteria, parasites and viruses. Water is pasteurized most quickly (@ 2 hours in mid-day) when put in black bottles or thin black pots w/ lids in a solar oven (funnel, CooKit, or other solar oven). If NOT using a solar cooker, then it could take 4-6 hours to pasteurize. Let cool before drinking.
WAPI's are used to monitor water pasteurization. These are small tubes with soy wax in them that act as a kind of thermometer. When the wax melts and goes to bottom you know it is safe to drink.
To Make WAPI http://makewapis.blogspot.com/
3/8”outside diameter x 1/4” inside diameter poly carbonate tubing.
4 lb test mono-filament fish line cut into 15” lengths.2- washer (#8 washer) 1- flat washer, 18-8ss, 3/8” IDx1”OD.Myverol 18-06 K wax (Mitsubishi International Food Ingredients, 1-800-287-9989)Cut tubing into lengths of 2 1/2”. Use PVC pipe cutters (easiest). Using a small propane torch, heat one tube end and crimp closed with pair of pliers and let cool. Put wax inside tube ( about 3/8” of wax) and add large washer over non-crimped end. Using the propane torch, heat opposite end of tube and crimp using pliers. Let cool. Drill 1/32” diameter hole in each flattened end of tube. Cut fish line to 15” lengths. Tie one small washer (3/8”OD) to one end of fish line. Thread this line through one end of the tube, up along side of tube, under and through the large washer, and through the hole at the opposite end of the tube. Tie a small washer (3/8” OD) at opposite end of fish line.
Aerobic Stabilized Oxygen: is a liquid concentrate of non-toxic stabilized electrolytes of oxygen in molecular form. Unlike chlorine or iodine, Stabilized Oxygen acts selectively and DOES NOT harm beneficial aerobic bacteria which is needed for good health. Most diseases and putrefying bacteria are anaerobic and cannot survive in the presence of concentrated oxygen. It is effective against harmful bacteria and microbes in drinking water without the need to boil the water. It can also be used to treat water for immediate drinking and as a "natural" antibiotic. Disinfects scratches, cuts and minor wounds. It has an unlimited shelf life. Directions: Immediate drinking: Use 5 to 10 drops per 8 ounce cup. For extended water storage: For normal treated tap water use ½ bottle per 55 gallon barrel. No Water Rotation for 5 years. (WaltonFeed.com $18)
Ozone: Ozone, aka O3 is made with oxygen and electricity. It is many times more powerful as a purifier than bleach. The down side is it needs electricity and has a short life span. Ozone is used to purify all bottled water we buy. Ozone machines cost as little as $150 or a house unit for about $1,500.
Micropur Tablets: The only purification tablets that are EPA registered on the market. They are effective against viruses, bacteria, cryptosporidium, and Giardia. Unlike iodine tablets, these tablets leave you with only the taste of fresh water. Each tablet treats up to one liter of water, eliminating all microorganisms. Tablets come in a bottle of 30. (beprepared.com $13)
Polar Pure Water Disinfectant: It uses pure crystallized iodine in a unique delivery system to destroy water-borne pathogens including giardia cysts and micro-organisms (viruses) that pass through filters. Iodine creates health problems for some people, including: thyroid problems, allergic, pregnant women, but is safe for others for 3 months if no filtering after treating. Works well in extreme temperatures, will treat 2000 liters of water, stores indefinitely. (thestuffoutlet.com $10)
Bleach: (unscented Clorox)Let sit, covered 1 hour before drinking. 3-6 month shelf lifeamount of water clear water cloudy water1 quart 2 drops 4 drops1 gallon 8 drops ¼ t.5 gallons ½ t. 1 t.55 gallons 5 ½ t. ¼ c.
Distillation: It is a process of boiling the water and collecting the evaporated of water. This method does not remove all chemicals but it does give you clean water from polluted or salt water. The easiest form of distillation is solar but you can also boil it. This method does not make much water nor does it taste very good. 1.2 hours to distill 1 gallon of water. (that is a lot of fuel) Cost: about $300 for non-electric.
Filters and Purifiers

Cheesecloth Coffee Filter Homemade Britta Kaydyn Filter Katydyn Filter Big Berkey

Pre-Filter: You want to remove all visible solids by filtering water through porous
membranes such as cloth or coffee filters. Extends life of filters and purifiers.

Filter: The technical classification of a filter is removing .20 to 4.0 microns. They will also remove chemicals; like chlorine and lead and heavy metals. High end ones will remove most pathogens like bacteria and cysts but they will NOT remove al viruses.
Low end Filters (meaning they only remove a few chemicals and bacteria): homemade and Pur/Britta
Filter/Purifier: Most have activated carbon to remove some chemicals and improve taste. Most also have a ceramic filter impregnated with silver or iodine that kill the micro organisms, bacteria and viruses and filter them out. What this means is very clean, good tasting water. A good purifier can cost between $180-$500 but it also comes with the benefit of filtering out everything mentioned above plus it may removes viruses such as Hepatitis A, Polio, and Norwalk. These include: Katadyn’s, Aqua Rain’s and Berkey’s.

Filter Choices
When looking for a water filter or purifier, you first need to decide where and how often you will use it. Filters are offered in many sizes, models, and prices to fit you and your budget. Also, be sure to look at the output rate. Some only put out one quart per hour, others seven gallons per hour. Also remember that purifiers can be used to filter your everyday drinking water. Don’t forget to buy extra filters.
Hint: Use pre-filter to extend the life of your filters and purifiers.


Aqua Rain Sport Berkey Light & Big Berkey Katadyn Pocket Micro Expedition Water Straw
AquaRain Natural Water Filter: It has 4 filters, and will filter up to 1 gallon per hour, up to 2,500 gallons per filter, of good, clean drinking water for a total of 10,000 gallons. The ceramic filter claims to remove cysts and bacteria. Enclosed within the hard ceramic shell there is a concentrated bed of Granulated Activated Carbon (GAC) that contains a self-sterilizing metallic silver. The silvered GAC absorbs various chemicals and improves the taste and odor of the water (aquarain.com Cost $189).
Berkey’s: These filters with the Black Purification Elements claim to be more powerful than any other gravity filter element currently available. They are classified as a purifier. Virtually no other filtration element can duplicate this performance. The filter elements have micro-pores so small that harmful pathogenic bacteria, cysts, or parasites cannot pass through them. The filters also remove and reduce unwanted chemicals, solvents, metals, etc. foul tastes and odors and are self-sterilizing. Yet they leave in the healthful and beneficial minerals that your body needs. They filter up to 3000 gallons per element.
(For complete list of filtering results see DisasterStuff.com)
Sport Berkey Portable Water Purifier designed to remove and/or dramatically reduce a vast array of health-threatening contaminants from questionable sources of water, including lakes, streams, stagnant ponds and water supplies in foreign countries. This exclusive filter is impregnated into the micro-porous filter for the ionic absorption of pollutants into the filter such as dangerous heavy metals.
Note: If using a source of water that might contain extreme bacteriological/viral contamination, to put purify first. Refills 160-640. Cost $30
Berkey Light is made of Lexan, the same material used to make bullet-proof glass. It's upper chamber contains 2 Black Burkey purification elements which filter 2-4 gallons of water per hour, up to 30 gallons per day, into the 2.75 gallon reservoir. ($220)
Big Berkey: It produces 3.5 gallons with 2 filters or 7 gallons per hour with four elements. The Big Berkey® has a 2.25 gallon storage capacity.
(DisasterStuff.com) Cost: $315
Katadyn Gravidyn is a no-pump gravity filter for providing drinking water for families, groups, and camps. The Gravidyn features a 2.5-gallon water container and a simple water dispenser valve. The unit's three silver impregnated ceramic elements with built-in carbon cores will filter 1 gallon per hour, up to 39,000 gallons. These field-cleanable elements bacteria and protozoa and they also reduce chemicals in the water. (beprepared.com Cost: $175)
Katadyn Pocket Microfilter is the most rugged, highest-capacity microfilter on the market. Katadyn's exclusive silver-impregnated ceramic element eliminates most waterborne bacteria, protozoa and cysts, and filters up to 13,000 gallons before needing to replace the cartridge. The heavy-duty construction lasts throughout your travels and comes with a lifetime guarantee. Includes prefilter, bottle clip, carry bag, measuring gauge and cleaning pad. Filter rate: 1 qt. per min. (beprepared.com $200)
Katadyn Expedition Water Filter: The indestructible high performance filter. It is ideal for large groups and relief organizations. It is indestructible and easy to use. The best choice for expeditions, river raftings, camps, etc. It's 0.2 micron ceramic depth filter technology will output up to 4- liters per minute. It's cartridge capacity is up to 100,000 liters (depending on water quality) (beprepared.com $900)
Frontier Water Filter Straw safely filters contaminants down to two microns in size, including commonly found pathogens such as giardia and cryptosporidium. Can be used to drink from any bottle, cup or directly from water sources. Ultra-lightweight and compact size fits easily into the smallest daypack, fanny pack or emergency kits. (cabelas.com $10)
Goal: 2-55 gal. drums & 1-5 gal. jug (per person), pump, wrench, filtering system.

When planning your water preparation: A minimum storage of 1 gallon per person per day ( 2 gallons is better); always have available at least one way to filter your water and 2 ways to purify your water, one can be a high end filter. We really suggest to prepare for 90 days.