This Should Concern You. Seriously.

http://futurestorm.blogspot.com/2008/12/why-is-us-military-preparing-for.html

Military Troops to be used in Law Encorcement against the general Public by 2011.

Have you seen a basic 1 year supply for 1 person???

Have You Seen What the Basic 1 Year Supply for 1 Person Looks Like? - Here are pictures
It seems like we beg, plead, and even offer to help anyone that will listen in an attempt to get others to get their food storage. We try to explain why they need it, and it feels like we are beating a dead horse. Some people try to rationalize that we “really” don’t need to store everything that we have been asked to store. As I’m sure most of you have experienced, we hear every excuse for reasons why we can’t store. The regular excuses of no money, no room, no time, don’t know how to use wheat, or don’t eat wheat, etc. But lately, I’ve heard “that is so much to store”, that “our family would never use 400 pounds of grains per person in an entire year”. Also, “we don’t use that much salt or oil”, therefore they don’t feel they need to store it. As what felt like my last feeble attempt to try to help, the thought came to actually create a display to show 1) what does that one year basic survival food for one person look like (the amounts the First Presidency has recommended), and 2) how much does that really work out to be per day?
This display has been amazingly successful in our Stake.We purposely bought food that they could get at a grocery store, rather than overwhelming them with seeing tons of dry-pack cans or buckets. We broke out each item and gave them the prices of what this would cost locally. We even gave them the price of a shelves to store it on. When I measured out the amounts to show what you would get per day, per person it was impressive. We took all those ingredients and by adding yeast (which we know is not on the basic list – but hopefully we have stored), we were able to make one loaf of bread and 1/3 cup of beans. That would be your food for the entire day. Not much. You would survive, but it won’t be pretty..




The following quotes come from talks on the Church’s website, providentliving.org
“Encourage our members to regularly put into their home storage a few wholesome, basic food items and some water that is safe to drink. They should save some money, if only a few coins each week. This modest approach will soon enable them to have several months’ reserve. Over time they can expand these modest efforts into a longer-term supply by adding such essentials as grains, legumes, and other staples that will keep them alive in case they do not have anything else to eat. As we do our very best, we can be confident that ‘the barrel of meal shall not waste, neither shall the cruse of oil fail.’ We shall enjoy greater wisdom, security, peace of mind, and personal well-being. We shall be prepared, and because we are prepared, we shall not fear.”
Bishop Keith McMullin, Lay up in Store, General Conference, April 2007

“As we have been continuously counseled for more than 60 years, let us have some food set aside that would sustain us for a time of need...I do not wish to sound negative, but I wish to remind you of the warnings of scripture and the teachings of the prophets which we have had constantly before us. I cannot forget the great lesson of Pharaoh’s dream of the fat and lean kine and of the full and withered stalks of corn.”
President Gordon B. Hinckley, The Times in Which We Live, General Conference, October

“ As long as I can remember, we have been taught to prepare for the future and to obtain a year’s supply of necessities. I would guess that the years of plenty have almost universally caused us to set aside this counsel. I believe the time to disregard this counsel is over. With events in the world today, it must be considered with all seriousness.”
Elder L. Tom Perry, If Ye Are Prepared Ye Shall Not Fear, General Conference, October 1995

“Recent surveys of Church members have shown a serious erosion in the number of families who have a years supply of life’s necessities. Most members plan to do it. Too few have begun.”
Thomas S. Monson, Guiding Principles of Personal and Family Welfare, Ensign, September 1986

“The revelation to produce and store food may be as essential to our temporal welfare today as boarding the ark was to the people in the days of Noah.”
Ezra Taft Benson, Ensign, November 1980, p. 33

I have been reviewing some of the things we have discussed for a long time out of personal interest, and lately out of seeming oncoming necessity. Obviously, defense is quite a broad topic, but as I have talked to military personnel and studied several written sources (including the U.S. Army Field Manual, which we might want to get a copy of), the curriculum we are interested in seems to break down into a couple of categories.

1. Individual Militant Skill

Anything is only as good as its parts. This involves:

-Individual Fitness
-Unarmed Combatant Skills
-Armed Combatant Skills (From edged weapons to pistol and rifle)
-Auxiliary Skills (Medical, Explosives, Radio, Repelling, Etc.)

2. Small Unit Tactics

Working in groups to defend our families, essential positions and material, and to take strategic objectives.

-Small Infantry Unit Organization and Roles (Fireteams, Support Teams, Squads and Platoons)
-Combat Strategy and Phases (Assault, Interim, Defensive, Patrol, Strategic Insertion and Raids)
-Required Equipment (Assault Weapons, Suppressive Weapons, Tactical Gear, Engineering, Medical, Mechanized, Etc.)

3. Theatre Strategy and Control

Fitting all the pieces together, developing a plan of action and organizing the carrying out of operations

-Intelligence Gathering (Forward Observation and Listening Posts)
-Tasking and Force Deployment
-Operational Oversight/Control
-Artillery Battery control

So I guess we should set some goals for developing our understanding of these principles. These two links are for the best civilian training available, for both unarmed and armed combat.

Unarmed (in San Diego)
http://www.targetfocustraining.com/


Armed (Las Vegas)
http://www.frontsight.com/index.asp

These are Tactical Gear sites:

http://www.afmo.com/
http://www.eagleindustries.com/home.php
http://www.tacgearstore.com/?gclid=CLnu8pK3yJgCFRwpawodIXLe0w
http://www.ustacticalsupply.com/
http://www.cuttingedgetactical.com/
http://www.armysurplusworld.com/default.asp

Anyway, call me if you want me to explain anything, or when you want to talk about this stuff.

Emergency Communications: Ham Radio

Amateur radio, often called ham radio, is both a hobby and means of communication during disasters and emergencies.

Ham Radio defined: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HAM_Radio

In order to use a ham radio, you must pass a 35 question exam with 70% or better. Once you pass you will receive a call sign to use when transmitting (issued by the FCC). There are three levels or classes— Technician, General and Extra. You will start by passing the technician exam and can later decide if you would like to take the general and extra class licensing exams in order to obtain greater operating privileges.

Test prep:
Those of us who took and passed the exam this past week recommend doing the following:

1. Review the Technician Class book by Gordon West
Technician Class (Amateur Radio Element 2 FCC License Preparation) by Gordon West— This book is extremely concise and well written. It contains all 392 questions in the question pool for your Technician Class license. This book can be purchased online for under $20, often available from your city or county library, or available at the La Piedra Bldg. Library (only 3 copies available). Additionally, our ward and stake have ham radio experts. If you are in another ward or stake contact your representative or library.

I have this book on audio (CD or MP3) if anyone would like it. (Approximately 4.2 hours total)
Many amateur radio course instructors use this book exclusively for their test prep workshops.

2. Practice Exams
Take at least several practice exams from the following sites.
http://www.qrz.com/testing.html
http://www.aa9pw.com
When you can score 70% or better on a consistent basis you will be ready to go.

3. Taking the exam
When you are ready to go, you can take the technician exam at March Air Reserve Base at the Defense Media Center. Visit http://www.k6afn.net for directions and a map.

Exam times— there are no walk-ins. You must let them know you are coming.

Weekly:
Every Wednesday between 2 and 4 p.m.

Weekend exam sessions:
February 7, 2009 10:00 a.m.
April 4, 2009 10:00 a.m.
June 13, 2009 10:00 a.m.
August 22, 2009 10:00 a.m.
October 10, 2009 10:00 a.m.

If you would like to request a special exam time contact Bruce Ziemienski, WA6BZ at 951-232-3725 or e-mail wa6bz@k6afn.net

You will need to bring $15 cash or check and photo ID. You can take the exam on the computer or on paper.

Additional Testing Information:
If you would like to take the exam elsewhere, visit http://www.arrl.org/arrlvec/examsearch.phtml to find a location near you.

Bryan

5 basic survival skills

The 5 Basic Survival Skills
Acquiring survival skills is an ongoing process that will last for your entire life. There is always more to learn and experience, which is part of the fun of being a survivor.
As your survival expertise grows the knowledge and abilities you gain are often useful in other areas. For example survivors prepare ahead of time, and they are experts in the art of ingenuity and inventiveness. Excellent attributes for anyone.
The possible environments and situations you could find yourself in are innumerable. Although each situation has its particular requirements for successfully surviving, in the final analysis it is mastery of five basic survival skills that are essential. Proficiency and preparedness in these 5 basic skills will give you the edge and put you on your way toward becoming a talented survivor.
First Basic Survival Skill - Fire
Knowing how to build a fire is the best survival skill you can have. Fire provides warmth, light, and comfort so you get on with the business of survival. Even if you do not have adequate clothing a good fire can allow you to survive in the coldest of environments.
Fire keeps away the creatures that go bump in the night and so you can have the peace of mind and rest you need. And that is not all. Fire will cook your food and purify your water, both excellent attributes when you want to stay healthy when potential disease causing organisms are lurking about. Fire will dry your clothing and even aid in the making of tools and keeping pesky insects at bay.
But even that is not all. Fire and smoke can be used for signaling very long distances.
Always have at least two, and preferably three, ways of making a fire at you immediate disposal. With waterproof matches, a butane lighter, and a magnesium fire starter or firesteel you should be able to create a fire anytime anywhere no matter how adverse the condtions.
So the lesson here is to learn the art of fire craft. Practice and become an expert. Your ability to create a fire is perhaps the most visible mark of an experienced survivor.
Second Basic Survival Skill - Shelter
Shelter protects your body from the outside elements. This includes heat, cold, rain, snow, the sun, and wind. It also protects you from insects and other creatures that seek to do you harm.
The survival expert has several layers of shelter to think about. The first layer of shelter is the clothing you choose to wear. Your clothing is of vital importance and must be wisely chosen according to the environment you are likely to find yourself in. Be sure to dress in layers in order to maximize your ability to adapt to changing conditions.
The next layer of shelter is the one you may have to build yourself, a lean-to or debris hut perhaps. This is only limited by your inventiveness and ingenuity. If the situation requires, your shelter can be insulated with whatever is at hand for the purpose. Being prepared, you may have a space blanket or tarp with you, in which case creating a shelter should be relatively easy.
Before you are in need of making a survival shelter, be sure to practice and experiment with a variety of materials and survival scenarios on a regular basis. Should the need arise you will be glad you did.
Third Basic Survival Skill - Signaling
Signaling allows you to make contact with people who can rescue you without having to be in actual physical contact with them. There are a variety of ways to signal for help. These include using fire and smoke, flashlights, bright colored clothing and other markers, reflective mirrors, whistles, and Personal Locator Beacons. Three of anything is considered a signal for help: 3 gunshots, 3 blows on a whistle, three sticks in the shape of a triangle.
In a pinch, your ingenuity in devising a way to signal potential help could very well save your life.
Fourth Basic Survival Skill - Food and Water
Whenever you plan an excursion be sure to always bring extra food and water. Having more on hand than you think you need will give you that extra measure of safety should something happened and you have to stay out longer than anticipated.
It is important that you know how to ration your water and food as well as find more in the environment in which you find yourself. You can go without food for a number of days, but living without water for even a few days will cause your efficiency to drop dramatically.
If at all possible, boil any water you find in order to kill disease organisms that may be in even the cleanest looking water. Filtering or chemically treating water is second best.
Fifth Basic Survival Skill - First Aid
Always bring along your first aid kit and a space blanket. Most injuries you are likely to encounter in the wilderness are relatively minor scrapes, cuts, bruises, and burns. Larger injuries are going to need better facilities than that which you have at your disposal, which means you will need outside help.
Panic is your number one enemy when you are in any emergency situation, be it injured, lost, or stranded. What you need in these situations is first aid for the mind.
Think STOP:SitThinkObservePlan
Your best defense in any emergency is your ability to think and make correct decisions. Building a fire is often the beginning first aid for the mind. Doing so will keep you busy and provide an uplift from the warmth, light and protection fire provides.
Practice Survival Skills
The expert survival skills and know-how you have accumulated through practice and experience will serve you well. When the real thing comes along, you will be prepared and adept at staying alive. Where others have perished, as a survivor you will know you can make it. And that is a good feeling to be sure.

Basic Emergency Preparedness
In survival as in all aspects of life, it is easier to be organized if we prioritize. The priorities, during a disaster or emergency are, in order: shelter, water, sanitation, medications, and then food. We will be focusing on the first three. Keep in mind “Disaster”(that means good chance no power, heat or electricity).
So plan for every contingency, “When Ye Are Prepared…Ye Shall Not Fear”

Survival Goals…..What You NEED!!!
Shelter: Clothes (both regular and for extreme weather)
Sleeping bag, pad/cot and a Good Tent
Sanitation: Hand Washing, Teeth, Bathing Supplies,
Clothes Washing , Drying Supplies,
Toilet and additives, Hygiene Supplies, disposal plan,
Garbage Disposal supplies and plan
Water: Stored Water (15-110 gallons minimum-per person) and supplies
Purifying Plan and Supplies and Good Filter/Purifier


SHELTER
You can live 4-6 weeks without food; 3-5 days without water; but hypothermia will kill you in 30 minutes. Therefore, shelter is the first priority! Shelter may be defined as anything that protects the human element from nature’s elements. In putting together a good short-term preparedness kit, you may think it necessary to initially purchase items that are of inferior quality. There is no economy in going second class. Quality tents and sleeping bags are critical and should be considered a serious investment, with a little time and effort you can find quality items that are in your budget. After all, your life and the lives of your family are in the balance! We will be touching on 3 areas of shelter: clothing, sleeping bags and tents.
Clothing

In any disaster your first shelter is what you wear. Disaster could strike in the middle of winter. It could be rainy or very windy or both. You may not be in a position to just stay safe and warm in your house. That is why it is so important you have proper clothing, have it ready and all together in an area that would be fast and easy to get to. Sturdy shoes/socks, and some clothing should be next to your bed (along with a lightstick or flashlight) easy to grab at a moments notice.

It is easier to survive in the summer with winter clothes
than in the winter with summer clothes.

Clothing is not usually considered in planning for a disaster. Yet, it is something that is advised by church leaders and common sense. Finding suitable clothing will be a very real concern in a disaster. In normal times when your clothes wear out or they are outgrown, you just drive to the store and buy what you need. When there is an emergency, normal commerce stops. If it is a small problem, like a power outage you will have plenty to wear, however, if it is a long lasting emergency such as a pandemic or a natural disaster, it could be months before shopping is available. If you want to have clothes for your family in an emergency situation you will need to get them now. Do you live in a cool northern area or a warmer southern one? This will affect what you store.

Suggested Clothing Minimums
(per person - double for year supply*)
2 pairs sturdy pants* 3 long sleeve shirts*
3 short sleeve shirts* 5 pairs of underwear
3 undershirts* 5 pairs of socks*
1 sweatshirts* 1 light jacket
1 pair sneakers * 1 heavy coat
1 warm hat* 1 pair warm gloves/mittens*
1 sturdy pair shoes (opt)

You may already have most of these; however, if you have growing children storing clothes poses a problem, especially for pants and shoes. Sweatpants are good for storing; if the children or you grow taller or rounder they will still fit.
Shoes may be the most difficult clothing problem we have. The shoe purchase procedure is the same as with your other clothing concerns: figure out what each child will need for at least 1 year, allowing for growth, buy it now and put it away.

HINT: Put all your clothes into a plastic bag (or as much as you can fit into it). Then wrap the mouth of the bag around your vacuum hose. Turn the vacuum cleaner on, suck air out when shrunk, quickly but carefully remove vacuum tube and tie bag tightly. Helps keep out dirt and bugs too.

You don’t have to buy everything new for adults or children you can find; hand-me-downs, thrift shops, yard sales, end of season sales. If you find a good source of inexpensive clothes, buy lots of things in all the average sizes. Remember that most people will not be at all prepared for a crash so any clothes you don’t need will be excellent barter items. Also some church clothes would be a great addition for longer term storage.

For Areas with Extreme Cold / Precipitation
1 set PALS Clothes 1 pair good winter boots 1 good Rain Suit (Harbor freight)

“Anyone can be truly warm and comfortable at temperatures from above freezing to well below Zero with ease. It's not magic, it's science. The technology and equipment have been in development for over 30 years. We call it "P.A.L.S." (The Phillips Arctic Living System). P.A.L.S. is an approach to winter clothing with performance advantages over anything you've ever worn. Simply described, the P.A.L.S. clothing system will (when properly used) keep you dryer and warmer than other layered technology clothing on the market.” Jim Phillips
jimsway.com preparemyfamily.com foamclothing.com


1” Foam Clothes Winter Boots Rain Suit

This may seem a bit extreme to some of you. However, there may come a time when you will find clothing like this invaluable. If you are in a position to make or purchase these, it would be a really good idea.

Great Resource
Some of our information can be found in this manual. It is highly recommended that you get your own copy. You can buy one, already bound or you can down load off web.
LDS Preparedness Manual
A FREE electronic version of this manual can be downloaded from
http://www.abysmal.com
THIS MANUAL MAY BE SOLD AT COST ONLY - AND IS NOT TO BE OFFERED FOR RESALE
Sleeping Bags and Pads
(By Larry Bethers, slackpacker.com)
A sleeping bag is a critical piece of survival equipment, especially in winter. Emergency survival situations rarely occur on warm sunny days, and you can just about bet it will be on a dark, rainy or snowy night when the world comes apart. Be respectful of your sleeping bag, it could be the driest, warmest most comfortable sanctuary available when all else is wet, cold and out of control.

How Sleeping Bags Work
A sleeping bag traps and holds air around your body. Your body warms the air, which is in turn insulated by the sleeping bag. These fabric sheets are stuffed with various types of material to trap air for insulation and comfort. Look for hoods too.
HINT: A fleece sleeping bag liner will add 10º-20º more in insulation value.
Types of Sleeping Bags
The two main shapes of sleeping bags are mummy and rectangular. These two shapes can each be filled with either down or synthetic fill.
Mummy bags are tapered at the feet and insulate most effectively.
Rectangular bags permit more movement and comfort.
.
Evaluating and Comparing Sleeping Bags
Compare each bag for: temperature or comfort rating, total overall weight, size when compressed, overall size, and types of insulation,
Temperature or comfort rating describes the minimum temperature the bag is designed for. The ratings the manufacturer provides are only a guide. Select a bag with a temperature rating that exceeds the low end of the temperature range you expect. Look for a bag rated +35° for summer camping, +10° to +35° for spring and fall, a 0º bag for cold weather or high altitude, and an "Extreme" or -30º bag for winter camping or if you get cold easily. If a +20° F bag sounds right for you, a +10° bag would be better. If you easily get too hot you can always undo the zipper to cool down.
Total overall weight: If you are just using it for “camping” then weight isn’t really a concern. Fill weight just refers to the insulation weight.
Size when compressed. This is a personal choice.
Overall size is not to be taken lightly. Do you need a "regular" or "long" model? The general rule is as follows: If you are no taller than 6 feet, choose a "regular" length bag. If you are up to 6-feet-6, you want a "long" bag. If your waistline is more than 40", you want a "long" bag. Bags that can zip together are also helpful.
Down filled bags weigh less and provide better insulation than synthetic-filled bags. They also compress into smaller shapes and tend to be of better quality. However, if they get wet their insulation value goes down to nothing.
Synthetic insulation bags are filled with materials such as Qualofill, Polarguard, Thermolite, Hollofil, or Lamilite which will keep you very warm on cold nights. They are bulkier than down bags and weigh more but they cost less, and a wet synthetic bag can be wrung out when wet, and will still work well in keeping you warm
Sources: cabelas.com, rei-outlet.com, sportsmansguide.com or local sport goods store.

Sleeping Pad

Sleeping pads perform 2 important functions -- first, they keep you comfortable when you're sleeping on hard, uneven ground. Second, they provide an important layer of insulation between you and the ground (to cut down on conductive heat loss).
How do they work? Sleeping pads insulate the same way that sleeping bags and clothing layers do. They trap and hold a layer of dead (non-circulating) air between your body and the cold (in this case, the cold ground). Your body gradually warms this layer of dead air and it becomes an insulating barrier. The insulative performance of a pad depends upon how much air it holds inside and how free that air is to circulate.
Things to think about when Choosing a Pad
The kinds of weather you expect- Plan for extreme cold. The level of comfort you want while sleeping- some people prefer to save money, space and weight by sticking with very basic pads. Others prefer to spend (and carry) a little more to stay as comfortable as possible in the wilderness.
How much extra weight you want to carry with you- Thicker, more comfortable. Consider Your Sleeping Pad Options
Air mattresses- basic, inflatable air bladders (do not use pool mattresses)Positives- They're comfortable, adjustable and inexpensive. Negatives- They are heavy, bulky and they can be punctured/ripped easily. Air inside is free to circulate, so they tend to be poor insulators. Bad Choice. Open-cell foam pads- sponge-like foam pads made up of tiny, open air cells Positives- They're comfortable, lightweight and inexpensive. The cells restrict air circulation, so they are also more effective insulators than air mattresses. Negatives- It is absorbent (bad if wet), is less insulating than closed-cell(must be four times as thick to get the same insulation). Bulky, difficult to roll and not very durable. Closed-cell foam pads- Made of dense foam filled with tiny closed air cells Positives- They're cheap, durable (won't pop when tromped on) and extremely insulative (almost no circulation of air in pad. Closed-cell foam is also non-absorbent. Negatives- Relatively stiff and firm, with far less cushioning than open-cell foam Self-inflating pads- open-cell foam pads wrapped in air-tight, waterproof nylon shells. Positives- As comfortable as open-cell foam, good insulation and don’t soak up water. They're adjustable (opening built-in air valves let you control the amount of air inside and thus the firmness of the pad) and they're extremely compact when rolled up. Negatives- They're more expensive than the options listed above. Can be punctured or ripped (though field repairs are not difficult). Heavier than open- or closed Memory Foam: Gets hard below 60%, Really Bad Choice Try Before You Buy: check for comfort, ease of use, and quality. BAD CHOICE Sources: cabelas.com, sportsmansguide.com or sporting goods store.

Cots

Extra wide/long Bunk Bed Single w/storage Double-wide
Cots have a similar purpose as pads, they add more comfort in sleeping and will give the added bonus of storage under the cot. Cots have the added benefit in the summertime of air flow underneath, however, in the winter you will need to add an air barrier under your bag. They come in a variety of sizes; for kids, extra long and wide, double-decked, double-wide, and short and tall. A couple of online places where they can be found are:
www.beprepareddirect.com
http://www.cabelas.com/
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/
Tents
“1 Nephi 2:4 - And it came to pass that [we] departed into the wilderness. And [we] left [our] house, and the land of [our] inheritance, and [our] gold, and [our] silver, and [our] precious things, and took nothing with [us], save it were [our] family, and provisions, and tents, and departed into the wilderness.

Just like your house you want your tent to be able to protect you from the elements. A fierce wind, or a drenching downpour tests the effictiveness of any tent, especially if it is not built to take abuse. Your tent is an expensive investment, if it is properly treated, will provide years of service. Get the right tent, and you can expect years of dependable shelter from almost any storm you might encounter. There are many types of tents and you may want to have a combination: screen tents, summer tent, cooking tent, 3-Season Tent, and a 4-Season or Winter Tent.

Screen Summer 3 Season 4 Season

Kinds of Tents
Summer and ScreenThese tents are primarily a shade provider for summer outings, and the large space design is perfect for summer family camping. A roof protects against light summer rains, and large mesh panels are designed in almost every wall to keep the breeze flowing in and the insects out. They can come in many varieties, including several models that are all screen, providing bug proof shelter in the shade, perfect for outdoor food preparation, eating and bug free chatting. While good for summer months, the excessive ventilation will result in chilly times and are worthless in wind, rain or snow. Adding heavy duty tarp over top protects from rain/snow. (Walmart, Costco, Kmart, Sportsmansguide.com etc)
Cooking Tent: You will want to have a separate tent for cooking/washing. There are a couple of reasons for this. You don’t want the walls, sleeping bags, etc. to have a coating of cooking grease on them and more importantly you don’t want the inside of your sleeping quarters to have even the smell of food which every camper knows is an invitation for insects and varmints small and LARGE to visit you. It needs to be well ventilated and can have an eating area.
Three-Season Three-season tents are for just that - protection for you in spring, summer or fall. Usually, they will have numerous options for ventilation such as mesh ceiling panels and windows. However, they are also provided with a sturdy rain fly that can be quickly installed to protect against downpours, dampen the wind, and hold in heat on those cold spring and fall nights. Some three-season tents are even convertible to four-season, or winter tents. These models will have a zippered nylon panel that can be used to block off all of the ventilation panels, giving you an option for all seasons.
Four-SeasonA four-season tent has to live up to steep expectations which your trusty three-season tent would be hard-pressed to meet. It should keep out the cold, stand up to strong winds, brush off heavy snow, and generally repel all forms of precipitation. It also should ventilate well. In dry, cold air, you exhale about a liter of moisture overnight. If trapped inside the tent, that moisture will transform into a shimmering skin of frost covering your walls and ceiling come morning, frost that can"snow" down on your bag and clothing or melt during the day, rendering your tent wet and heavy. High-end winter tents feature hooded, zippered vents that can be left open in any weather. These vents are usually located at the top of the tent so warm, moist air can escape. At a minimum, you'll want a tent with two-way zippers on the tent body and rain fly doors. That way you can leave a crack open at the top of the tent rather than at the bottom, to release moisture without directing an icy draft on sleeping campers. They come with extras such as a removable floor panel to put in a wood burning stove, and a stove jack for the roof.
Tent Styles

A-Frame Dome Wall Tent Tipi
Modified A-frame: Named for it’s “A “shape. It has a center hoop pole or diagonal center poles which causes the sidewalls to be angled outward to increase the space within. This increases the lateral stability, helping the tent to hold its own against the wind.
Dome Tents: They come in many shapes and sizes that slightly resemble a curved dome. They are very strong due to their shape and the modern materials used in the frames and covers. The curved sidewalls shed rain and snow, causing it to run off before it can collect and with no straight walls wind is deflected. Dome tents are also freestanding. This means you can put the tent together without first staking it down. Then you can position it on the desired location and secure it with stakes. Domes are constructed with interconnected bars that criss-cross, forming a frame to support the fabric. The result is a large room inside the tent with up to 50% more room than the A-frame design. The number and strength of the poles determine the amount of structural stability. Some with their criss-crossing poles can handle hurricane force winds.
Wall Tents: They have been around for hundreds of years and proven themselves in all types of weather. They can be any size. A big down side to wall tents is their weight, flat walls that resist high winds and guide ropes that extend far beyond the sides.
Tipi: The best design was by the Plaines tribes. They were the innovators of the open flap at the top to be adjusted for air circulation in hot or cold weather. The flaps also allow for an open fire inside. Tipi's can be small or extremely large. Tipi's are heavy and have long poles to consider when transporting. They are wind resistant due to their shape.
Other Considerations
Real Size Vestibule Poles Material Stakes
Size: The size of a tent is normally quantified by how many people can sleep on the floor if packed together like sardines. You really need to check out the actual floor dimensions of each model since the "man" ratings can definitely be misleading. If it says 4 man, that may really mean sleeping for 2 along with some supplies.
Weight: Weight is a consideration because you will have to move your tent. It is great if it can be divided up in 50 lb or less packages, instead of one, large 100+ lb package that would take many men and a truck to move.
Vestibules: Vestibules are the front or back porches of camp life. They are usually created by an extension of the rain fly, and therefore, they usually have no floor. What they do have is some extra room, providing an extended dry area to store packs, boots and other camp items, especially when they are wet or muddy. Some of these are more elaborate and roomy with additional support poles for the vestibule, actually creating a small second room.
Poles are very important in a tent design; they are the foundation and framing that holds up your tent home. Steel poles are used in family and cabin tents. They are strong and provide sturdy support, but they are heavy. Aluminum poles are more expensive, but they are also substantially lighter in weight and offer greater strength. All aluminum poles are not created equal. If you are looking for performance under severe conditions, such as four-season a 6000-7000 series alloy provides a bit more strength. Tent Fabric Coatings: One confusing number you may see in tent specifications is related to the waterproof coating on the tent fabric. A decent value for waterproofness is 1000mm; however, if you plan to use your tent often in wet conditions and severe weather, you should look for a value closer to 1500mm. Some floors are even rated 3000, don't look for values any higher than that, they break down too easy.
Stakes: In mild weather, staking merely keeps the floor taut; however, if you expect windy conditions, good-long stakes are recommended
Extras: Hammer, shovel (to flatten out area), tarp (for under tent), broom, repair kit
Practice Makes Perfect: Don’t wait until a disaster strikes to put together your tent. Have several dry runs either on a weekend campout or in the backyard for weekend sleepouts.

Where to Find Good Tents
Wall tents
walltentshop.com montanacanvas.com springbar.com deluxewalltents.com, rainiertents.com davistent.com cabelas.com
Tipireliabletent.com reesetipis.com
Dome
cabelas.com turtletuffshelters.com sportsmansguide.com
Shelter Goals: Appropriate Clothes and shoes for each family member
Good Sleeping bag and if possible pad or cot (per person)
A Good Tent
SANITATION
The biggest cause of death after the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami in 2004 that initially killed over 230,000 was the lack of clean water and poor sanitation practices in the weeks and months AFTER the wave hit. During times of emergency it is critical that sanitation be strictly observed in the cleaning of clothing, bedding materials, and all kitchen and food preparation utensils. Typhoid fever, amoebic dysentery, diarrhea, infectious hepatitis, salmonella and Giardia are diseases that spread rapidly in times of emergency and threaten all, yet are all diseases that can easily be controlled by simply following the rules of good sanitation.
Body

Hand Washing Sanitizer Wipes Brushing Sponge Bath Solar Shower


Hand Washing / Sanitizer: Keeping hands clean by washing often with an anti-bacterial liquid soap and or with use of sanitizer is extremely important in unclean conditions. Wipes also helpful to wipe hands and faces.
Goal: 3 bottles per person of each PLUS lotion to prevent drying and cracking of skin.

Teeth: Having clean teeth not only helps you feel better but reduces infections of the gums. (swish with Hydrogen Peroxide good for infections)
Goal: 1 toothbrush, 1 floss and 1 tube toothpaste per person

Sponge Water Baths: Water is precious resource in emergencies. When you need to bathe, use a small amount of water and sponge/washcloth to wash, share water, if possible (no illness) cleanest to dirtiest.
Goal: Small tub; washcloth, soap, towel (per person)

Shower: (if enough water) Solar Showers and propane heated showers are available as well as portable shower enclosures that include a shelf for the solar shower.
Available at: SportsmansGuide.com and Cabelas.com.


5-gal solar shower Solar Shower Heater Propane Shower Heater Portable Shower









Clothes
In emergency situations that last longer than a few days, you will need to wash at the very least your underclothes and socks to prevent fungal growth/infections. You will need the following supplies: Tub, plunger, heavy rubber gloves (to protect hands), clothes line, clothes pins, laundry soap, and washboard/brush.

Washing Clothes


Hand Washing In Buckets Washer Board Rapid Washer Wonder Washer

To wash your clothes there are several methods available:
Hand Washing: Let clothes soak in soapy water 1 hour before washing You can wash in a tub scrubbing then squeezing and scrunching and swishing and scrubbing them around with your hands and against each other; using a floor scrubbing brush on the work clothes that are very dirty; let the dirty water out, fill up again with clean water, swish it all about, let it out again, fill it up with clean water again, swish about, then the stuff is clean! ). It takes about 15 minutes (not including soak time) to wash and rinse a large load of laundry without power.... You can use cold water (if warm water is wanted can heat in black tub in sun (summer) or on stove).
Bucket: Use a 5-6 gal. bucket with a 2” hole cut in lid, use clean toilet plunger or a rapid washer, Use 2 buckets; one for washing, one for rinsing. (the rinse tub then becomes the wash tub to save water).
Washboard or Soft Brush: for really dirty clothes (Lehmans.com)Rapid Washer (Lehman.com $13): plunger type washer, much more effective than hand-washing alone. All you do is raise and lower it like a plunger. The special internal baffle sends water rushing through clothes to flush out dirt.)
Wonder Washer (Emergency Essentials $47): The Wonder Washer has a 15 quart capacity and is great for camping and for emergency use.

Wringing and Drying

Mop Ringer Clothes Wringer Clothesline Drying Racks


Wringer: After rinsing run through ringer to remove excess water
(Lehmans.com $135-185, Ebay, 2nd hand Store).
You can twist clothes or use mop wringer but does not wring out as much water.
Drying: (lehmans.com)
Summer... hang the clothes outside on clothesline. For heavy clothes return every once in a while and squeeze the water from the bottoms.Winter...Use accordion -style wooden racks to dry the clothes near the woodstove.
Goal: Washing tub and implements; laundry soap; drying implements

Laundry Soap
(http:www.thefamilyhomestead.com.laundrysoap.htm)
You can store your own favorite liquid soap or make your own for pennies a load.

Liquid Soap Homemade Ingredients Homemade Liquid
Homemade Dry Laundry Detergent
(1-2 T. per load / 56 loads)
1 c. Bar Soap, Grated into fine flakes (Fels Naptha /Zote ½ bar or Ivory 1-bar)
Zote found at 99 Cent Store; Fels Naptha at Walmart or Albertsons laundry isle1 c. Powdered Borax (20 Mule team Borax) found at Walmart- laundry isle1 c. Washing Soda (NOT Baking Soda- Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda.)
Found at Albertsons (I special ordered mine)
Homemade Liquid Laundry Soap (hard water version)
(1/2 - 3/4 c. per load/64 loads) $0.02 per load
http://www.metacafe.com/fplayer/8219...undry_soap.swf (video)
For One Year Supply: 1-Box Washing Soda, 2-box Borax, 9-bars soap
6 c. Hot Water
1/2 bar Fels Naptha Soap, finely grated (can use Zote or Ivory) see above
3/4 c. Washing Soda (A & H) see above 3/4 c. Borax (20 mule team) see above
2 gal bucket w/ lid to mix in 4 c. Hot water & 1 gal + 6 c. cold water
½ -1 oz essential oil (for fragrance) Optional
Mix grated soap in a sauce pan with 6 c. water and heat on low until dissolved. Takes about 20 minutes. Stir in Washing Soda and Borax. Stir until thickened and remove from heat. Put 4 c. water to bucket, add soap mixture and mix well, add in essential oil (opt). Add cold water stir. Let sit for 24 hours and it will gel. Store covered or used liquid laundry soap bottles; keep labeled. This is a low, sudsing soap. It can be used in HE machines. For really dirty cloths, use ¾ c. soap and/or Oxyclean.
Homemade Fabric Softener (1/4 c. per load)
2 c. cold water 1 c. baking soda 1 c. vinegar
Place baking soda in LARGE bowl and pour vinegar over it; while it's bubbling, pour cold water in and mix. Store in sealed container and shake before using to combine all ingredients. Add 1/4 cup of mixture to rinse water.
Dishes

Washing: Wash dishes in hot water with anti-bacterial soap whenever possible, rinse in sanitized water and allow to air dry (germs can hide in towels). You can sanitize dishes in a solar cooker (leave in for 1 hour in full sun).
Sanitized Water: Steramine 1-G Tablets: Kills Viruses and Bacteria: Add one tablet to one gallon of water: sanitizes food surfaces as well as doors, counters, shelf life 10+ years (kept dry) and they are portable – 1 bottle=150 gal. Cost $8 (thestuffoutlet.com)
Drying Dishes: Let air dry on rack instead of towel drying.
Other Ideas
Paper Products(cups/plates/utensils/napkins)are very useful if low water supply.
Be careful storing, handling, and eating of food to avoid illnesses.
Human Waste / Garbage Disposal
What will you do if your toilet stops flushing and no one is coming to take your garbage away? If an emergency like this happens you MUST find a way to safely dispose of the human waste (sewage) and garbage yourself. If you don’t, you will soon be spending most of your time and energy treating sick people, including yourself.
The three most important things to do are:

Bury or store all garbage and human waste at least 100 feet away from water wells or open water and at least 18 inches deep.
Keep flies, roaches and animals out of the sewage and garbage.
Wash or clean your hands whenever you handle something dirty, BEFORE you touch something that might be touched by someone else.

Human Waste


Water Off Plug Drains Brush Heavy Gloves Sanitizer Trash Bags Privy


If no water service. Turn off water, plug drain to shower/tub and toilets with rubber ball, in old sock (sock is to make removal easier), covered in Vaseline (prevents backup smells).

Other things you will definitely want to have on hand:

Hygiene
Toilet Paper (6 rolls per person, per month)
Flannel Squares (reusable TP)(4”double thick/edged, put in bleach/water after use, wash)
Peri Bottles – used to rinse off (if lots of water available) (Overstock.com)
Feminine Hygiene Products (sanitary pads/ tampons)

Privy (potty room): Ropes/sheets-tarps, Portable (Cabelas.com), or Outhouse

Additives- with either the Home Toilet or a Portable toilet you will need add one of the following to help break down “your deposit” and keep the smell down.
Powdered Lime & Borax: Sprinkle “your deposit” with 1 T. each, keep in covered pail (found at Lowe’s by bricks-$8.50 for 50 lb.bag) For family of 6 - 6 months.
Bio-Gels (digester/deodorant): Put one packet of each in (Walmart)

Goal: Toilet; additive; toilet brush, sanitizer; shovel; toiletries; Privy, hygiene supplies
13-gallon trash bags (trash compacter bags- Costco $12=60 bags).



Emergency Toilets
After every “deposit” sprinkle with 2 T. Lime /Borax mix. (see below) or use Bio-Gel products (according to directions). Keep toilets covered when not in use.

Non-Composting Human Waste Disposal: Change bag when ½ full. Tightly close top of bag. Carefully put in pail or something sturdy to move bag (really bad when bag rips open) then bury it at least 18” deep because dogs can sniff through 16” of dirt and they will dig it up and then the rodents will LOVE it. If the ground is frozen use a pick ax. If you don’t have a yard to bury it in find one. If you won’t have to unbury bag, when bag is in bottom of hole poke a couple holes with shovel and then cover completely with dirt. Leave extra dirt piled so you remember where you buried it.

Home Toilet Conversion: With water turned off, flush toilet a couple of times to completely drain the toilet boil. While wearing gloves, spray toilet with a 10-1 water to bleach solution, wash then dry thoroughly. Put rubber ball, in old sock, smothered in Vaseline and shove tightly into hole. Line the bowl with a sturdy plastic bag and tape down with duct tape. Put sturdy 13-gallon, trash bag inside the line toilet and either tape down or lower seat to hold in place..

Portable Toilets: These are plastic buckets with seats that are used like the Home Toilet Conversion, except you only use one Heavy (2-3 ply) 13 gallon bag in the bucket. Large families might want to have two.


Bucket Luggable Loo Collapsible Hassock Trench Bio-Gel

Bucket: a bucket with a toilet seat resting on top.
Luggable Loo: 5 gallon bucket with seat and cover combo that effortlessly snaps-on and-off for easy assembly and cleaning. $18
Collapsible: Folding toilet chair, with padded seat, it uses bags for waste $24
Hassock: Lightweight, self-contained toilet. It has a removable inner bucket that allows for easy disposal. Lid has storage for one roll of toilet paper. $34
Found at: Walmart, Sportsmansguide.com, Cabelas.com, beprepared.com

Trench Latrine (for longer term): Use a shovel to dig a pit 4-6 feet deep and 1 foot wide. Place a bucket/box/ barrel or anything with a hole in it that you can sit on over the pit. Whatever you do you MUST cover the pit and toilet tightly so that flies cannot get in it while no one is using it. Clean seat regularly with water/bleach solution. When the pit fills to within eighteen inches of the top, fill the hole with clean dirt and mound it over.







Composting Toilets
A long term method of disposing human waste is found in the Humanure Handbook, it can be download for free at http://www.weblife.org/humanure. If anyone is serious to understand the best way to approach human feces, then this book is a must read.

Poop Bible Sawdust Toilet Comp. Schedule Family Humanure Piles
Using a Sawdust Toilet http://home.earthlink.net/~tabletophomestead/potty.html“The sawdust toilet works on the principle of aerobic (with air) decomposition, as opposed to sewer, septic or lagoon systems that use anaerobic (absence of air) decomposition. Aerobic decomposition is what makes compost, leaf litter, etc. and results in an earthy smell. The sawdust toilet can consist of a 5-gallon bucket housed in a box. It's "flushed" by covering with dry, organic material. We found that sawdust works best and provides as much odor control as a conventional flush toilet. When the bucket is full, it's covered and taken out to the composting area and dumped. The fresh contents are covered with some of the older compost. The bucket is washed out, sprayed with a bit of bleach water and returned to the box. In the year that we've used it, we've noticed no flies, no worms, no evidence of animal activity and no odor from the composting area. After about 9 months we started a new pile, and now the original pile is decomposing nicely and has shrunk to less than 1/2 it's initial size. The whole project has worked so well that we've decided that in our situation it just doesn't make sense to waste good water with poop.” Human manure can be composted with organic garbage.
Composting Additives-
Organic (sawdust, leaves, shredded paper, grass clippings, etc)
Put 2 inches in bottom of “toilet”. When done with “your deposit” cover completely with 1 inch of composting material. When bucket is ½ full dump in middle of composting pile and cover with layer of hay or other organic material.
Garbage
Garbage is trash that has food or anything else it in that would attract insects, rats or other critters. It should not be allowed to accumulate where these pests can get into it. If garbage service is expected to resume in a few days then dry garbage should be tightly sealed in bags or kept in tightly covered garbage cans. If garbage service is out for more several weeks and you are unable to store it, then whatever can’t be reused, or fed to the animals should be burned or buried. Avoid keeping garbage inside the shelter.
Bagging: Crush containers to make them smaller. Garbage should be drained before being placed in storage containers. If liquids are strained away, garbage may be stored for a longer period of time without developing an unpleasant odor. Liquid wastes that don’t have a lot of fat in them can be poured out outside if kept more that 100 feet from open bodies of water and water wells. Keep all garbage in a closed container. A tight-fitting lid is important to keep out flies and other insects.
Burying: If no can space is available in covered containers, dig a hole deep enough to cover trash with at least 18-24 inches of dirt, which will prevent insect breeding and discourage animals from digging it up. If burial is not possible then it will have to be burned.
Burning (not toilet paper) To burn garbage you must use a metal barrel with holes in the bottom and a grate or screen over the top to act as a spark arrester to prevent wildfires. Only dry garbage should be burned. Wet garbage should be buried.
Garbage Goal: Heavy Trash bags; shovel; covered trash cans; matches (to burn trash).
WATER
(grampadave.com)
Water is essential for life. Most of us just take it for granted. We turn on the faucet and clean clear water comes out day and night. It is not until some major disaster or calamity occurs that the true value of water truly becomes apparent. In some cases it becomes “more valuable than gold.” Many of us may be prepared with our 72 hour emergency kits which contain a bottle or two of water. But how many of us are really prepared for an emergency that could last for a week, a month, several months….and yes, perhaps even up to a year.”

The new guidelines from providentliving.com are “Store enough drinking water for circumstances in which the water supply may be polluted or disrupted. Water is more essential that food in sustaining life.”

There is much information out there about storing water. The following are some ideas of what is the best and safest way to store and treat water.
Store clean water before the crisis.

Store at LEAST 15 gallons per person, 2-55 gallon per person preferable, and THEN purchase some type of water filter/purifier that will allow you to make available a larger supply of safe drinking water. Also important: bung wrench, pump and white plastic hose.
Other Sources of drinking water: Toilet Tanks and Water Heater; pool for washing water.


15 gal. 2-55 Gallon PETE Filter Wrench RV Hose 5-gal jug IBC Pillow Tank

STORING WATER
How Much? Two Gallons, per person, per day
FEMA recommends a minimum of ½ gallon per person per day; more for children or in times of stress or in hot climates. Most recommendations are 1 gallon per person per day for drinking. Allow more for first aid, cooking, cooling down, etc. (minimum 2 gallons per person per day)
(recommended minimum: 2-55 gallon barrel per person = 4 - 8 week supply)

How to Store?
New 55 gallon food grade barrels (blue) BEST for drinking Cheapest and easiest way to store water. New barrels are safest for drinking water as they will not taint the water in any way and do not provide a residual food source for bacteria or any residual tastes. Used barrels are safe for washing or drinking IF you can purify and filter to be sure water is safe. Cost: New $55-90 Used: $10-20.
Other ideas:
Blue Plastic Drums (5, 15, and 30 gallon)
Totes (hard and soft) 100+ gallon (atlinc.com)
5-6 gallon Mylar water storage bags in cardboard boxes, or collapsible jugs
2 liter clear plastic soda bottles with screw on lids (PETE), bottled water
NOT soft plastic water bottles (leak) or bleach bottles/milk jugs (not safe).
Where to Store
Store where easily accessible for emergency use and water source to fill. Best stored in dark, cool place. Can be stored outside, off of ground, covered, in shade if possible. Store away from insecticides, petroleum or anything else with a strong odor.
Cleaning Barrels
FEMA recommends that used containers to be used for storing water be rinsed with a diluted bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water before filling and roll around to clean then empty and rinse thoroughly (use regular Clorox Bleach - must not contain soaps or scents). Also can be cleaned with hot, soapy pressure washer at car wash. New barrels just need to be rinsed out.
Filling 55 Gallon Barrels
Put barrel where it will be stored (weighs @450 lbs when full). Use white plastic hose* to fill allowing water to run clear for a few minutes before filling to wash out any sitting water. Clean water in, clean water out. Fill, leaving 2”space at top to allow for freezing. Use bung wrench to tighten tops when done filling
*White Hose: (can be found at RV suppliers / Walmart NOT rubber garden hose (Consumer Report May 2003 “Dare you Drink from a Garden Hose”)
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/search.htm?query=garden+hose+drinking
New Barrels: fill with clean water.
Used Barrel : clean water and 1/4 c. bleach/additive; purify with good filter before drink
Rotating
New: 1 year or 5 years (with additive) Used: every year w/ bleach, longer with additive

Other Needs
Bung Wrenches- required to open and close
Pump or Siphons- to pump water out of barrels (at least 2)
Portable Dispensers- 5 gallon jugs; easy house usage and for evacuating


Treating Water
(Mark Mazour:)
Remember: During a crisis you must consider all water (including ground water or tap water) to be contaminated and dangerous and it should be purified and before drinking. Water may look and smell okay, but bacteria or microorganisms or toxins with nice little names like Giardia, Lamblia or Cryptosporidium may still be lurking in the water waiting to cause gastrointestinal problems. It is crucial to use only treated water for; drinking, cooking, dish rinsing, hand washing, cleaning, cooking, bathroom surfaces, any prepared drinks, making ice cubes and brushing teeth.
Treating Water 2 Step Process: Purify (kills pathogens) and filtering (removes chemicals, metal, VOC’s, nitrates, silt and sediments) and makes it taste good.

Ways to Purify
In order to kill pathogens in water you have to purify it. This can be done by: boiling; with the Sun; with Aerobic Stabilized Oxygen; with ozone; with chemicals (Purification tablets or Iodine or bleach); or with distillation. These methods will kill the bacteria/viruses but won’t do anything for the taste or getting rid of chemicals or heavy metals. For that you want a good filter. Pool water NOT safe to drink even if filtered.


Boiling Pasteuration WAPI A.S. O2 Tablets Iodine Distilling

Boiling: Boiling has been the traditional way to treat water. It does a good job of killing parasites, bacteria, and viruses but it does not neutralize any chemicals or improve the taste. The drawback is that this method requires a LOT of time and fuel. To use this method, boil water 5-10 minutes plus one minute for every thousand feet over sea level.

Solar purification: http://www.solarcooking.org/pasteurization/metcalf.htm
http://www.solarcooking.org/pasteurization/default.htm#WAPIs
When water is heated to 165º for 10 minutes it kills all bacteria, parasites and viruses. Water is pasteurized most quickly (@ 2 hours in mid-day) when put in black bottles or thin black pots w/ lids in a solar oven (funnel, CooKit, or other solar oven). If NOT using a solar cooker, then it could take 4-6 hours to pasteurize. Let cool before drinking.
WAPI's are used to monitor water pasteurization. These are small tubes with soy wax in them that act as a kind of thermometer. When the wax melts and goes to bottom you know it is safe to drink.
To Make WAPI http://makewapis.blogspot.com/
3/8”outside diameter x 1/4” inside diameter poly carbonate tubing.
4 lb test mono-filament fish line cut into 15” lengths.2- washer (#8 washer) 1- flat washer, 18-8ss, 3/8” IDx1”OD.Myverol 18-06 K wax (Mitsubishi International Food Ingredients, 1-800-287-9989)Cut tubing into lengths of 2 1/2”. Use PVC pipe cutters (easiest). Using a small propane torch, heat one tube end and crimp closed with pair of pliers and let cool. Put wax inside tube ( about 3/8” of wax) and add large washer over non-crimped end. Using the propane torch, heat opposite end of tube and crimp using pliers. Let cool. Drill 1/32” diameter hole in each flattened end of tube. Cut fish line to 15” lengths. Tie one small washer (3/8”OD) to one end of fish line. Thread this line through one end of the tube, up along side of tube, under and through the large washer, and through the hole at the opposite end of the tube. Tie a small washer (3/8” OD) at opposite end of fish line.
Aerobic Stabilized Oxygen: is a liquid concentrate of non-toxic stabilized electrolytes of oxygen in molecular form. Unlike chlorine or iodine, Stabilized Oxygen acts selectively and DOES NOT harm beneficial aerobic bacteria which is needed for good health. Most diseases and putrefying bacteria are anaerobic and cannot survive in the presence of concentrated oxygen. It is effective against harmful bacteria and microbes in drinking water without the need to boil the water. It can also be used to treat water for immediate drinking and as a "natural" antibiotic. Disinfects scratches, cuts and minor wounds. It has an unlimited shelf life. Directions: Immediate drinking: Use 5 to 10 drops per 8 ounce cup. For extended water storage: For normal treated tap water use ½ bottle per 55 gallon barrel. No Water Rotation for 5 years. (WaltonFeed.com $18)
Ozone: Ozone, aka O3 is made with oxygen and electricity. It is many times more powerful as a purifier than bleach. The down side is it needs electricity and has a short life span. Ozone is used to purify all bottled water we buy. Ozone machines cost as little as $150 or a house unit for about $1,500.
Micropur Tablets: The only purification tablets that are EPA registered on the market. They are effective against viruses, bacteria, cryptosporidium, and Giardia. Unlike iodine tablets, these tablets leave you with only the taste of fresh water. Each tablet treats up to one liter of water, eliminating all microorganisms. Tablets come in a bottle of 30. (beprepared.com $13)
Polar Pure Water Disinfectant: It uses pure crystallized iodine in a unique delivery system to destroy water-borne pathogens including giardia cysts and micro-organisms (viruses) that pass through filters. Iodine creates health problems for some people, including: thyroid problems, allergic, pregnant women, but is safe for others for 3 months if no filtering after treating. Works well in extreme temperatures, will treat 2000 liters of water, stores indefinitely. (thestuffoutlet.com $10)
Bleach: (unscented Clorox)Let sit, covered 1 hour before drinking. 3-6 month shelf lifeamount of water clear water cloudy water1 quart 2 drops 4 drops1 gallon 8 drops ¼ t.5 gallons ½ t. 1 t.55 gallons 5 ½ t. ¼ c.
Distillation: It is a process of boiling the water and collecting the evaporated of water. This method does not remove all chemicals but it does give you clean water from polluted or salt water. The easiest form of distillation is solar but you can also boil it. This method does not make much water nor does it taste very good. 1.2 hours to distill 1 gallon of water. (that is a lot of fuel) Cost: about $300 for non-electric.
Filters and Purifiers

Cheesecloth Coffee Filter Homemade Britta Kaydyn Filter Katydyn Filter Big Berkey

Pre-Filter: You want to remove all visible solids by filtering water through porous
membranes such as cloth or coffee filters. Extends life of filters and purifiers.

Filter: The technical classification of a filter is removing .20 to 4.0 microns. They will also remove chemicals; like chlorine and lead and heavy metals. High end ones will remove most pathogens like bacteria and cysts but they will NOT remove al viruses.
Low end Filters (meaning they only remove a few chemicals and bacteria): homemade and Pur/Britta
Filter/Purifier: Most have activated carbon to remove some chemicals and improve taste. Most also have a ceramic filter impregnated with silver or iodine that kill the micro organisms, bacteria and viruses and filter them out. What this means is very clean, good tasting water. A good purifier can cost between $180-$500 but it also comes with the benefit of filtering out everything mentioned above plus it may removes viruses such as Hepatitis A, Polio, and Norwalk. These include: Katadyn’s, Aqua Rain’s and Berkey’s.

Filter Choices
When looking for a water filter or purifier, you first need to decide where and how often you will use it. Filters are offered in many sizes, models, and prices to fit you and your budget. Also, be sure to look at the output rate. Some only put out one quart per hour, others seven gallons per hour. Also remember that purifiers can be used to filter your everyday drinking water. Don’t forget to buy extra filters.
Hint: Use pre-filter to extend the life of your filters and purifiers.


Aqua Rain Sport Berkey Light & Big Berkey Katadyn Pocket Micro Expedition Water Straw
AquaRain Natural Water Filter: It has 4 filters, and will filter up to 1 gallon per hour, up to 2,500 gallons per filter, of good, clean drinking water for a total of 10,000 gallons. The ceramic filter claims to remove cysts and bacteria. Enclosed within the hard ceramic shell there is a concentrated bed of Granulated Activated Carbon (GAC) that contains a self-sterilizing metallic silver. The silvered GAC absorbs various chemicals and improves the taste and odor of the water (aquarain.com Cost $189).
Berkey’s: These filters with the Black Purification Elements claim to be more powerful than any other gravity filter element currently available. They are classified as a purifier. Virtually no other filtration element can duplicate this performance. The filter elements have micro-pores so small that harmful pathogenic bacteria, cysts, or parasites cannot pass through them. The filters also remove and reduce unwanted chemicals, solvents, metals, etc. foul tastes and odors and are self-sterilizing. Yet they leave in the healthful and beneficial minerals that your body needs. They filter up to 3000 gallons per element.
(For complete list of filtering results see DisasterStuff.com)
Sport Berkey Portable Water Purifier designed to remove and/or dramatically reduce a vast array of health-threatening contaminants from questionable sources of water, including lakes, streams, stagnant ponds and water supplies in foreign countries. This exclusive filter is impregnated into the micro-porous filter for the ionic absorption of pollutants into the filter such as dangerous heavy metals.
Note: If using a source of water that might contain extreme bacteriological/viral contamination, to put purify first. Refills 160-640. Cost $30
Berkey Light is made of Lexan, the same material used to make bullet-proof glass. It's upper chamber contains 2 Black Burkey purification elements which filter 2-4 gallons of water per hour, up to 30 gallons per day, into the 2.75 gallon reservoir. ($220)
Big Berkey: It produces 3.5 gallons with 2 filters or 7 gallons per hour with four elements. The Big Berkey® has a 2.25 gallon storage capacity.
(DisasterStuff.com) Cost: $315
Katadyn Gravidyn is a no-pump gravity filter for providing drinking water for families, groups, and camps. The Gravidyn features a 2.5-gallon water container and a simple water dispenser valve. The unit's three silver impregnated ceramic elements with built-in carbon cores will filter 1 gallon per hour, up to 39,000 gallons. These field-cleanable elements bacteria and protozoa and they also reduce chemicals in the water. (beprepared.com Cost: $175)
Katadyn Pocket Microfilter is the most rugged, highest-capacity microfilter on the market. Katadyn's exclusive silver-impregnated ceramic element eliminates most waterborne bacteria, protozoa and cysts, and filters up to 13,000 gallons before needing to replace the cartridge. The heavy-duty construction lasts throughout your travels and comes with a lifetime guarantee. Includes prefilter, bottle clip, carry bag, measuring gauge and cleaning pad. Filter rate: 1 qt. per min. (beprepared.com $200)
Katadyn Expedition Water Filter: The indestructible high performance filter. It is ideal for large groups and relief organizations. It is indestructible and easy to use. The best choice for expeditions, river raftings, camps, etc. It's 0.2 micron ceramic depth filter technology will output up to 4- liters per minute. It's cartridge capacity is up to 100,000 liters (depending on water quality) (beprepared.com $900)
Frontier Water Filter Straw safely filters contaminants down to two microns in size, including commonly found pathogens such as giardia and cryptosporidium. Can be used to drink from any bottle, cup or directly from water sources. Ultra-lightweight and compact size fits easily into the smallest daypack, fanny pack or emergency kits. (cabelas.com $10)
Goal: 2-55 gal. drums & 1-5 gal. jug (per person), pump, wrench, filtering system.

When planning your water preparation: A minimum storage of 1 gallon per person per day ( 2 gallons is better); always have available at least one way to filter your water and 2 ways to purify your water, one can be a high end filter. We really suggest to prepare for 90 days.

How to Harvest, Process, and Store Vegetable Seeds,
A Quick Comparison of Vegetable Seeds to Silver DollarsThe small seed envelopes available for sale at hardware stores and supermarkets are generally priced between $0.97 to $1.69 per package. Each individual package usually contains somewhere between 100 mg to 3.5g of seed, with an average of 900 mg of seeds per package. 1000 mg equals 1 gram and 1 gram equals 0.035 standard ounces. Therefore 900 mg equals approximately 0.0315 standard ounces or 0.0287 troy ounces. If the average seed package contains 900 mg of seeds and cost $0.97 then that is equivalent to $33.80 per troy ounce, which far exceeds the current market price of a one-ounce United States Silver Eagle. (Note: $0.97 / 0.0287 troy ounce = $33.80 per troy ounce.) Therefore, in today’s normal global economy, seeds are more expensive per ounce than pure refined silver. And history has repeatedly demonstrated that during serious worldwide famine conditions, food and seeds eventually become more valuable than gold.
Heirloom Vegetable Seeds Available on the InternetHeirloom vegetable seeds can be purchased at most hardware stores and supermarkets. Or you can buy heirloom vegetable seeds over the internet. One advantage of buying seeds over the internet is that you can quickly compare the prices of different sellers. When you look at the seed prices also consider the net weight of the seed package the same way you would do if you were buying groceries. In other words, calculate the cost per gram or the cost per ounce of seeds.Internet sellers usually have detailed information about each individual heirloom seed variety that they sell. If you purchase seeds over the internet, then you should print a hard copy of all the information the seller has available about the seed varieties you purchase and then keep those printed pages with your seeds when they arrive. The following heirloom seed companies would be happy to receive your business. And it would probably be wise to split your heirloom seed order between at least two or three of the following companies for a variety of good reasons.AbundantLifeSeeds.comOrganicaSeed.comHeirloomSeeds.comSeedsTrust.comVegetableSeed.netSeedsOfChange.comSeedSavers.orgSouthernExposure.comI also highly recommend buying heirloom seeds from The Ark Institute, Oregon
Basic Instructions for Saving Vegetable Seeds1. SEED TYPES: When you first purchase seeds you should avoid “Hybrid Seeds.” Instead you should buy “Heirloom Seeds” or “Open Pollinated Seeds.” Hybrid seeds are “man-made seeds” and they are only good for one planting. (Note: If you plant hybrid seeds and then save the seeds from the hybrid plants that are produced, and then plant those seeds the following spring, the results will be unpredictable. The plant that grows will usually resemble one of its parents or grandparents or something in-between. It is also possible that it may produce no fruit at all.) Heirloom seeds, on the other hand, will produce crops that yield seeds that will reproduce the same plant year after year after year as God originally intended. (Genesis 1:11 - Then God said, “Let the earth bring forth grass, the herb that yields seed, and the fruit tree that yields fruit according to its kind, whose seed is in itself, on the earth;” and it was so.) When you purchase a package of seeds, you should not plant all the seeds from the original package the first year. Instead you should save some of them for planting in future years if the event your first year’s planting efforts are not successful. You should also clearly mark exactly where you plant each type of seed with the name and variety of that seed so you can keep track of which varieties of seed do best in your climate and in your soil.
2. DISEASE AVOIDANCE: After you have planted your seeds and the plants appear, do not collect seeds from a diseased plant because the disease will have infected that specific plant’s genes and all future plants grown from those seeds will be easily susceptible to that same disease.
3. SEED SELECTION: Use the very best looking, strongest, and most productive plants in your garden for seeds. Generally, you are not looking for that one special fruit on the vine. Instead the characteristics you should look for are: early bearing of fruit, total fruit yield, fruit size and flavor and aroma, and disease resistance. Also, if applicable, late bolting to seed. Resist the urge to eat your most delectable looking vegetables. Those are the ones you want to duplicate every year in the future. After you have selected the fruits you want to keep for seed, identify them with a special marker such as a wooden stake beside the plant, or a ribbon or string loosely tied to the plant or vine. In most cases (but not all) it is important to save seeds from at least three different plants of the same variety to provide good pollination opportunities the following spring.
4. SEED RIPENESS: Allow seeds to fully ripen before harvesting to achieve the best germination yield the following spring. The seed must be given time to store enough nourishment so it can germinate the following spring and grow into a healthy seedling.
5. DRYING: Seeds must be dried before they are stored (between 5% to 13% moisture content, with an average of 8%). Individual seeds should be separated from one another so they can dry more evenly. Larger seeds will require more time to air dry whereas smaller seeds will require less time. Do not try to dry the seeds too quickly or they may shrink and crack. And do not dry at a temperature higher than 100°F. Indoor air drying is usually the best. However, if you live in an extremely humid area, then you may dry your seeds by placing them in the sun in front of a southern facing window for about two days. Since there is no easy inexpensive method for measuring the exact moisture content of your seeds, you will need to use your own judgment based on your personal experience. Generally the drier the seed (but not below 5%), the longer the seed will remain alive in storage. Based on Dr. James Harrington’s research, each additional 1% decrease in the dryness of a vegetable seed from 13% down to 5% will double its storage life, However, below 5% will normally kill the seed and above 13% will usually result in the seed not surviving the first winter. Since the home gardener does not have the expensive equipment to accurately measure the exact moisture content of a batch of seeds, the home gardener may wish to use a trial and error approach. When you first suspect that your seeds are dry enough, put half of them into paper envelopes and label the envelopes with the variety of seed and indicate how many days the seeds were dried. Continue drying the remainder of the seeds for a few more days. Then put half of those seeds into paper envelopes and label them as your second drying with the total number of drying days. After a few more days of drying put the remainder of the seeds into a paper envelope and label them as your third drying with the total number of drying days. When you test each envelope of seeds in future years, you can use this trial and error method to estimate the optimal number of drying days for each type of seed based on your climate, and your humidity, and your average normal drying conditions.
6. STORAGE: AFTER your seeds are dry, store your seeds in a standard small paper envelope, or a paper bag, or a cloth bag in a dry, cool area. Do not allow the seeds to remain in direct contact with the air or they will gradually absorb moisture from the humidity in the air with the passage of time. After placing the seeds in a standard small paper envelope or cloth bag, you can store that envelope or bag inside a standard plastic freezer bag. Freezer bags are more expensive and of a higher quality than regular plastic bags. Do not seal your seeds inside a vacuum plastic bag without air because seeds are living organisms and they need a minimum amount of air to continue their life cycle. The best place to store seeds is in a plastic freezer bag inside a refrigerator at a temperature between 33°F to 40°F. This will more than double the storage life of your seeds.
7. LABELING: Clearly label each of your seed envelopes or bags using permanent ink to identify the exact variety of seed and the year the seed was harvested. Also include the number of days the seed was allowed to dry, along with any unusual weather conditions during the drying process, such as unusually humid weather or unusually warm or cold weather during the drying process.
8. SEED BANK: Most seeds can successfully germinate for three to five years after harvesting, even if they are not stored in a refrigerator. Therefore, it is prudent to have your own “Seed Bank” into which you deposit approximately 10% of the seeds you harvest each year. If an unexpected disease attacks your crops one year then you will not be able to harvest any seeds from that year’s crops, even though you may be able to eat some or most of that year’s poor quality marginal vegetables. In this type of situation your “Seed Bank” will permit the re-establishment of the quality of your crops in future years. The seeds in your “Seed Bank” are your insurance against unpredictable future diseases that may sweep through your geographical area. They are also good insurance against an unexpected cross-pollination that produces a seed that is different than you expected. In most cases you will not become aware of this type of problem until harvest time the following fall. Once again, your “Seed Bank” will allow you to re-establish this variety the following spring using seeds saved from previous years before the problem appeared.
9. EMERGENCY SEED RESERVE: Each spring you should gradually plant each variety of seed over an extended period of several weeks. You should not plant all your seeds of one variety at the same time. This reduces your risk of loss to late frosts and it provides a longer harvest period for fresh vegetables for the table. If you have seeds that are more than one year old which are not part of your “Seed Bank”, then your first planting the following spring should be one-half of those older seeds. If you do not have any two or three year old seeds, then do not plant more than half your previous year’s seed the following spring. Save at least half of the previous year’s seed as an “Emergency Seed Reserve” (in addition to your “Seed Bank”). Occasional late snows or an unexpected late frost can kill everything you plant at the beginning of spring. Your “Emergency Seed Reserve” will allow you to plant a second time that same year. Later during the spring or summer other problems may arise, such as heavy rains or no rains or insect damage or tornados or hurricanes, and these disasters could result in no crops to harvest in the fall. In disaster situations like these, it provides some comfort to know that you still have a reasonable amount of seed reserved for planting the following year. If you are forced to use your “Emergency Seed Reserve,” then only plant half of them and keep the rest of the seeds in reserve. Always keep at least half of your remaining seed as an “Emergency Seed Reserve” for really hard times. This means each future planting will be much smaller, but that is much better than having nothing to plant at all. Because of unpredictable situations such as the above, each year it would be wise to harvest at least twice the amount of seed you think you will need the following year. This strategy will also provide you with seed to share, sell, or trade and it will bring you one step closer to being an independent, resourceful human being in God’s natural order of things.
10. PREPARING SEEDS FOR PLANTING: (Note: These suggestions are optional.) Place the seeds you wish to plant in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator for three hours. When you remove the seed from the freezer the rush of warm air will help to break its winter dormancy. Then place the individual seeds between two damp paper towels for one day in a warm area. The seed is now in an optimal condition for immediate planting.
11. SPRING GERMINATION TEST: (Note: This step is optional.) You can test the viability of your seeds before you plant them in the ground in the spring. Use a medium-tip permanent marker to write the name of the seed and the year it was harvested on a dry paper towel. Then dampen the paper towel and place ten seeds on one-half of the towel. Fold the towel in half so the seeds are between the two halves of the damp paper towel. Place the damp paper towel inside a plastic trash bag and put it in a warm place. You can put several damp paper towels containing different seed varieties in the same plastic trash bag. Keep the paper towels slightly damp but not soaking wet. Periodically check the seeds based on the average germination time for each type of seed. You can determine the “approximate” germination rate by counting the number of seeds that sprout and dividing by the original number of seeds tested. For example, if you tested 10 seeds and 8 of them sprouted, then the germination rate is 80% (8/10 x 100). You can then plant these sprouted seeds in a peat pot indoors if the outdoor weather is too cold, or you can plant them in the ground if warm weather has arrived.